• BSMJ series self-healing LV Shunt capacitors System 1
BSMJ series self-healing LV Shunt capacitors

BSMJ series self-healing LV Shunt capacitors

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Brief

It is used in an AC power system with rated voltage less than 1.2kV to increase power factor to reduce reative loss and to improve voltage quality.


Main Features

a. Novel in structure,light in weight
It is produced with Zinc-and-aluminum metallized polypropylene film as the medium so the dimension and the weight is respectively only the 1/4 and 1/5 of the old.
b. Low loss
Because the actual value is less then 0.12%,energy loss of the capacitor itself is few,the raised temperature is low,operation life is long and it has outstanding saving energy result.
c. Good self-healing performance
Medium partial impulse caused by the over voltage can healed by itself to operate as before.
d. Safety
It is very reliable because the discharge and insurance devies are installed in it.
e. No omitted oil
Its main immersed agent is the micro-crystal wax,which is solid at normal temperature,its drop-pot and dissoluble-pot are both above 70℃ and it won'omit operating,so it won't pollute the surroundings.


Mode&Implication
Main Technical Parameter

a、Usage environment:surrounding temperaturt is -25℃~+50℃the humidity is less than 85% the altitude is below 2000m.
b、Rated voltage:0.23~1.2kV,AC.
c、Rated capacity:1~60kvar.
d、Capacity deviation:0~+10%.
e、Tangent of the dielectric loss angle:In the power frequency rated voltage,20℃is less than 0.2%.
f、Withstand voltage between the poles:the rated voltage is 5s if the voltage between the poles is 2.15.
g、Maximum permitted over-voltage:it is 1.10 as the rated voltage.
h、Permitted over-current:it is 1.30 as the rated current.
i、Automatically discharge:It is less than 50V in 3min after power broke down when the Dc is ?Un as the before increased by the capacitors.
j、It conforms to the standards GB12747-1991 and IEC60831-1996.


Table of The Main Specification And the Overall Dimension

The overall dimension of the single-phase products and the products installed impedance coil is equal to the three-phase ones.Order by the contract if the other specification is needed.

Note: the above overall size is for your reference only, we accept special orders of other specifications, and the sizes are subject to change in improved design.


The installation and size of shape


Q:I was told to replace the distributor and check the fuses. Also to check the wiring from the distributor to the alrenator. Where is all this stuff at and how do I check it The car just stopped and sounds like it is going to start but won't. Thanks
Probably under the dash on the left side of the steering wheel. Most internal items have fuses there. Some radios have an inline fuse, especially if it is an after market radio, but you would have to remove it to find it.
Q:I have an 2006 Ford Fusion SE. The vehicle is experiencing a parasitic draw of about 110mA. I've found that the draw is coming from fuse 19 in the underhood fuse panel. This circuit is one of the 12V Always Hot circuits that powers components controlled by the BCM, or as Ford calls it, the Smart Junction Box. I have already determined that it is not the Smart Junction Box, as well as a few other components powered by that circuit. I've read on another post that it was a navigation system problem. The vehicle is not equipped with any such equipment. I've also verified that neither an underhood light nor the trunk light are staying on. There aren't any TSBs regarding such an issue. I've also checked 2005 2007 with no luck. Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so, what advice might you have for me as a technician?
Just a guess but check the ABS control module. If its not shutting down when the key is off it will drain the battery. With the key in the off position you should be able to hear it humming if its the problem. There's a relay that controls it but its inside the unit so the unit must be replaced if it gets hung up.
Q:I changed all the bad fuses, then I changed the switch, then I tested the motor by hooking up a 12V battery pack, and it worked just fine up and down. What else could be the problem and how do I test it?Also, the window and the door lock mechanisms don't work on the passenger front door, even from the master control on the drivers side door.
Not exactly my area of expertise, BUT I do know that Chevy and GM vehicles in general have a history of failing electrical systems. I have heard endless stories of it and have seen hundreds of Brand new GM vehicles with burnt out head lights. I recommend just taking it to the autoshop if you've tried everything. Hope this makes you feel less alone in the issue. Best of luck.
Q:1988 Ford F-250 4x4 460, multi port fuel injection. dual gas tanks. Its started with intermittent problem, truck would just die, but start back up after a while, sometimes right away, others almost drain the battery to start it. in finally gave out for good, checked presser at rails nothing, ran alternate power to pump for a second and fuel presser jumped right up to 6lbs. but only ran it for a second. i don't do so well reading wiring diagramms
Have a diagnostic check run.
Q:I have a AEG Airsoft gun and It does not have a fuse on it.What will a fuse do to it and what should I expect it to do to the Airsoft gun's performance?Does the motor size determine anything?
A okorder
Q:Hi my first visitI have been having problems with battery drains lately. Overnight the voltage of my car battery drops from 12.4 to 11.8 and if I leave it more than 3 days it will not start (11.5 to 11.2). On idle and load it is near 14.2. So I feel alternator is charging well.I am about to start pulling fuses to locate drain but was wondering if an alternator that is starting to die (but will still charge) can cause battery drain. Can the diodes in alternators draw current from the battery?Thanks
the surge when shifting into drive sounds like an entirely independent problem. Often this can be caused by low Automatic Transmission Fluid. If it hasn't been run in a while, it takes a second for it to heat up so it fills the torque converter completely. Before it lurches, it probably seems like it's needing to have high RPMs to go a low speed. If it makes a really loud slamming noise, it's possible something in the transmission itself is a problem, but usually it sounds more like grinding, as if the gears didn't quite catch. If the car starts, runs and has 14.x volts on the battery, then your ground isn't a problem. Make sure though you have the actual ground strap grounded to the car. Occasionally the positive cable to the starter is wrapped in black which can lead to problems and a shortly dead battery if you ground it to the chassis. But that's probably not the problem for you. Like other people have said, short circuits can cause a rapid battery drain. If you're leaving it for a week and the battery is dying, I wouldn't worry too much. The car I'm working on right now, (1986 BMW 325e with 1991 525i engine) loses enough power over the course of a week if it's not run so that even the electric locks don't work, much less start. My friend's 1989 325is seems to run dry fast too. Point is, some cars just are big battery wasters and if you don't drive it often, it'll lose its charge surprisingly quickly. Hope I've been helpful, and good luck solving your problem!
Q:I just picked up my 1996 Jeep Cherokee from the shop. My mechanic fixed the ignition and a couple of other things, but now the power windows, blinkers, A/C and heat won't work. I checked the fuses, but they all appear to be fine. I'm gonna contact the guy tomorrow, but I just thought someone might have some insight. Thanks.
It just sounds like something was not plugged in all of the way, Either that or the ignition had more weak components or connections.
Q:For example:RresistorCCapacitorLinductorVtubeQtransistorIs there a complete list of normal component designations?
May be this will help you: ?A: Assemblies ?B: Transducers / Sensors / Detectors ?C: Capacitors ?D: Storage devices ?E: Miscellaneous ?F: Fuses ?G: Generator, battery pack ?H: Indicators, signaling devices ?J: Connector / connector pin Joining another connector (P) ?K: Relays ?L: Inductors and filters ?M: Motors ?N: Analogue devices ?P: Measuring / test point / connector plug ?Q: Transistors ?R: Resistors ?S: Switches, push buttons, emergency stops and limit switches ?T: Transformers ?U: Integrated circuits, Power converters, DC power supplies ?V: Electron vacuum tubes tubes ?W: Wires, conductors, power, neutral and earthing busses ?X: Terminal strips, terminations, joins ?Y: Solenoids, electrical actuators ?Z: Filters
Q:E.C.M. stands for electronic control modal
Don't stick wires
Q:-Approximately 800 miles on the bike-58 cm. aluminum frame (Ideal for 6' to 6'3)-Alexrims--R500 rims-Maxxis Fuse tires-Shimano SORA flightdeck and components (derailer works well but needs configuring as there is a bit of
Scott. Made in the USA, kick butt geometry, good lookin' bike. I say get it, just upgrade the Sora to at least 105.

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