• Stainless Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Concentric Reducers System 1
  • Stainless Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Concentric Reducers System 2
  • Stainless Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Concentric Reducers System 3
Stainless Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Concentric Reducers

Stainless Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Concentric Reducers

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Loading Port:
Dalian
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 pc
Supply Capability:
10000 pc/month

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Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Concentric reducers

Features standards and products of our Butt-Welding Concentric reducers:

Features of Butt-Welding Concentric reducers:

1.       High class materials

Our products only use high class raw materials of carbon/alloy steel pipes made from NKK or MANNESSMANN equipment for ordinary, high pressure, low/high temperature,boiler and other purposes.

2.       Uniform wall thickness and perfectly round

This can be achieved by our particular technical knowhow and our quality control program.

3.       Accurate dimension

Efficient piping work can be made only with fittings of correct dimensions and shapes. Our fittings are finished to have accurate straight/ plane ends, beveled angle...etc. to applicable standards by means of two or three spindle beveling machines.

Standards of Butt-Welding Concentric reducers:

Our welding fittings are manufactured in compliance with the following appliance standards:

ASME B16.9   ASTM A234   MSS-SP43   WPHY60   JIS B2311   DIN2605

                      ASTM A403   MSS-SP75   WPHY65   JIS B2312   DIN2606

                      ASTM A420   WPHY42    WPHY70   JIS B2313   DIN2616

                      ASTM A860   WPHY52                                       DIN2615

Manufacturing method and process of Butt-Welding Concentric reducers:

Stainless Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Concentric Reducers

 

BUTT-WELD FITTINGS   ASME B16.9/MSS SP-75

Butt-Welding Concentric reducers:


Stainless Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Concentric Reducers

Stainless Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Concentric Reducers





Packing of Butt-Welding Concentric reducers:

Stainless Steel Pipe Fittings Butt-Welding Concentric Reducers

FAQ of Butt-Welding Concentric reducers:

1) Q: What’s your main product? Which kinds of products are more competitive in your product range?

     A: Our main products are steel flanges, pipe fittings and steel pipes.

     Competitive Items: flanges in stainless steel, carbon steel, alloy steel  and punching carbon steel

     Butt welded pipe fittings in stainless and carbon steel

2) Q: what’s your largest size of flange and fitting? How long is the  production cycle?
      A: The largest flange we could produce is 80’’ and the largest fitting is 50’’.

      In general, we spend 20-25 days in a 20-ton order. If necessary, we  could make it shorter.

3) Q: Could you produce according to the drawings?

     A: Sure. We could produce according to the provided drawings, which  include forged and casted items.

4) Q: What kind of certificates do you have?

     A: We have ISO, TUV, API,SGS,BV etc. fittings in stainless and carbon stee

     Malleable Iron ,Stainless and carbon steel pipes


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this is just the tip of the iceburg. there has been so much wasted in Iraq its ridiculous
Q: Does the alarm go off on a saturn L100 when you open it with a key? i lost the remote to my car and i don't want to try it because im not sure how to turn the alarm off
In your position, I'd find a low place (such as the first floor ceiling, or in the basement if possible) where the existing pipe is clear and cut it off square. Before doing so, get a flash light and mirror if needed and determine where the pipe is supported. With those cast pipes being as heavy and brittle as they are, it's important to keep keep them supported securely. When possible, I like to use a circular saw or 4 angle grinder (cut off wheel) to do the cutting. They cause less vibration than many alternatives. If you need to use a sawzall, use a fine toothed metal cutting blade. Consider fernco fittings or others of their type to join the new PVC to the existing cast. You can get them from Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, etc. If you use silicone to seal up the new fittings (shouldn't be needed) be sure that everything is darned good and dry first.
Q: why we are using circular pipes instead of rectangular pipe ?
Dear And Manisha, if you insist upon asking serious questions, remember that a few good jolts from a peace officer’s tazor should bring you around to your senses. Please, check your spelling and throw some slang into the mix so you don’t offend any of the egos lurking, waiting to give you the smack-down with crass, thoughtless one-liners. Thank you Manisha, and have a great day! Zach
Q: I have a heat detector and alarm (
A street elbow is a type of plumbing or piping fitting intended to join a piece of pipe and another fitting at an angle. The difference between a street elbow and a regular elbow is the nature of the fittings on either end. A regular elbow has hub or FIP on both ends. A hub is a female ABS, PVC or copper pipe receiver; FIP denotes Female Iron Pipe threads, that is, it receives threaded MIP iron, brass or plastic pipe on both ends. FIP is also known as FPT, Female Pipe Thread, and MIP denotes MPT Male Pipe Thread. Generically, these are known as NPT fittings (National Pipe Thread fittings). A street elbow has a female fitting (hub or FIP) on one side and a male pipe or MIP fitting on the other end. The advantage of the street elbow is that it can be connected directly to another fitting without having to use a short connecting piece called a pipe nipple. Street elbows are available in 90°, 45° and 22.5° bends. They can be used in water supply, drainage, sewer vents, central vacuum systems, compressed air and gas lines, HVAC, sump pump drains, and any location where plumbing fittings would be used to join sections of pipe.
Q: Would I still need to be concerned about carbon monoxide build up if I converted to a heat pump system for my home. I have no appliances that use gas. Could I then get rid of my carbon monoxide detector?
Ken is right about the stress cracks, I've seen it first hand. I use both, just a couple wraps/layers and then TFE paste with teflon. Hope this helps, and good luck.
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Go down the hallway to the end and turn right. Then take the stars down to the next level and turn right at the bottom. Go along that hallway and take the lift back up one floor and turn right along the hall. HUH? What? Yes yes, I know that will just take you right back to here,.. but by that time there will probably be someone here who will know how to direct you to where you want to go. Danny. .
Q: the rear dif is locked. Were can I get parts?
You don't need goggles for all laser light. For something at 20mW though you probably should especially if there is a chance that the beam might be reflected into your eyes (I'm assuming you don't plan on just looking at it directly). Laser Safety (yours would be class 3B):
Q: What are the national standards for pipe connections (R (PT)) with tapered tubes at both ends? Thank you
A spiral shaped continuous raised part having a specified cross section on the surface of a cylinder or cone. According to its parent thread shape is divided into cylindrical and conical screw threads; according to their position in the matrix is divided into outer and inner thread, according to the section shape (teeth) divided into triangular thread, rectangular screw, trapezoidal thread, serrated thread and other special shape screw.
Q: Can anyone recommend a good alarm clock (preferable not made in China). I late for works these becuase of the crappy brand new alarm clock. I lose confidence in all Made in China products.
It won't affect your computer or any of its parts and pieces. If you have a standard CRT monitor, there is a small possibility that the iron pipe could affect it if it happens to be magnetic, but otherwise not at all. Note that galvanized pipe goes dull after a brief period, and is also more difficult to paint than standard black-iron. Further, the threaded areas are often not galvanized and so are prone to rust. You might consider using regular black-iron pipe (cheaper than galvanized), which when thorougly cleaned takes paint very well. You could then paint it all sorts of neat colors either as individual pieces or fittings or as a whole.
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