hot sales wooden door design

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wooden door design Spec:
1: material: chinese fir skeleton +honeycomb paper / wood strips + hdf boardaanatural wood veneer

Interior Wooden Door:

1: Standard size: 1900mm~2050mm x 600mm~850mm x 30mm~40mm;

2: Standard wall thickness: 80mm ~ 300mm;

3: Material:

door leaf: chinese fir skeleton + 8mm mdf board + natural wood veneer+ 7 times painting;

door frame: mdf with chinese fir or make by customized;

4: Filling material: mdf wood strips or honeycomb paper inside door leaf;

5: Accessories: lock,handle,hinges;

6: Loading time: 15-20days after 30% deposite;

7: Packing:EPE inside,plastic coner protector,export standard strong carton outside;

8: MOQ:10sets;

9: Loading capacity: 220pcs-20ft, 470pcs-40ft,500pcs/40HQ;

10: Payment: T/T , L/C;

11: Various designs & colors are available;

Q: The market often said that the aluminum alloy door and titanium magnesium alloy door What is the difference between the price of the number of gaps?: They are not distinguished by color, aluminum-magnesium alloy hardness than aluminum alloy, the original color is not different, plus magnesium alloy looks more white on the surface of the color can only listen to the sound and see the hardness. The price of aluminum and magnesium alloy than aluminum more than doubled.

Q: The problem: I have a metal(I think) crawl space door thats broken the heads of the nails used to secure it to the concrete off, thus leaving the door on the ground. I can't seem to get the broken nails out of the foundation so, my other option is to drill new holes into the door and the foundation. How do I do this?1. Are crawlspace doors typically metal? (I have a crawlspace door and I'm assuming it's metal)2. What kind of drillbit do I need to drill into it?3. Does anyone have any other ideas?: Not sure if such doors are metal, but if it is rusty at all, it is steel. Most stuff put in around poured concrete foundations are steel -- which is sort of too bad. For drilling steel, you can use a regular drill bit made for metal. Not a brad point wood bit. You will want a drill that plugs in -- your battery model may not have enough muscle. To drill into the concrete, use a masonry bit. These basically gnaw the hole into the concrete. Not difficult, I've done it plenty. Before drilling the holes, pick out your new hardware, which should include items that get pushed into the new concrete holes, and the screws go into those inserts. Made of either plastic or lead, usually. The size of what you pick out dictates the size of the hole you need to drill.

Q: I am trying to replace my bedroom doors that have a metal door frame. It doesnt look like it is screwed in. I am not sure how to go about this. Any help would be appreciated.: It usually has screws. If there is no piece on the inside that prys off, exposing screws from the frame into the wall, then there may be screws through a flange under the trim. You need to take the trim off anyway, so take it off and look. If there are no exposed screws, the wall covering (typically sheetrock) may be covering them, cut the sheetrock back a little, but not beyond what the trim covers. As long as you can see metal heading into the wall ,there is a point of attachment someplace under there. If you are not trying to salvage the frame, just get a sawzall and some good metal cutting blades and cut between the wall and the frame.

Q: Our concrete slab for the porch was poured after the house was built and concrete was splattered on a door. How do we go about removing it without damaging the paint? Sandy :O): Concrete Splatter Removal

Q: also have 2x8s to frame it.: Assuming your door is pre-hung, measure the jamb width (not the molding attached to the face of the jamb). Add 3 1/4 inches for your 2x8 lumber, ( you did buy treated didn't you?). Add another 1/2 inch for room to plumb the jamb in the opening. (I'm afraid you have to go back to the store to buy shims...get some great-stuff for doors and windows while you're there.) Measure height of door jamb. Add 1/4 inch for leveling. Mark wall using level. Cut blocks with concrete saw you rented while you were out buying shims and great-stuff. Pray wall doesn't tumble down on your head, ( You did remember to consult a qualified engineer. It's much better if you pay them to take the blame when things go wrong.) Fill voids in wall with mortar or cement. Tapcon treated 2x8 to opening using a generous amount of liquid nails I forgot to tell you to buy. (Back to the store again...you actually had tapcons and a hammer drill?). Finally...the door. Get out your six foot level and your three foot level. Shim bottom of door on hinged side about 1/4 inch. Plumb hinged side up shimming as needed. level across top. Plumb down other side. Use shims behind every screw. (You did buy screws). Fill voids with great-stuff. Caulk. Paint. Lightly oil hinges. Enjoy :)

Q: Ive heard that if you paint a metal door and then apply a deeper colour stain, you can create the illusion of wood. Any tips on how to do this and which colours look best? Any other suggestions to improve upon the ugly metal door look? I have about 12 of these in our new home to fix up as affordably as possibly.: Clean the metal doors with a degreaser, to take off any oils and try not to touch it much afterwards to prevent new oil from your skin. I used white paint, then you pick out the color of stain you like, or what matches your home. Then you can use a paint brush working long strokes (even coats) they don't have to be even lines. Just so it looks like wood. I love mine and have had many people do the same. Good Luck

Q: Aluminum doors and windows are fire: All metal that has not been fire-treated is not a fireproof material (can only be attributed to flame retardant materials).

Q: Aluminum alloy doors and windows corner code used in doors and windows where the position: There are two kinds of horse, the first is the early out of the 7-type black plastic system. The second commonly used, mainly for window angle bonding, especially for 45 degrees angle dark combination. Bonding strength is very high, tightening screw 銯 6 ~ 8 mm two kinds. Answer please accept. Can ask again.

Q: Home often static, that is, those metal door handle will have, what reason? How to do?: Is your body with static electricity, it is best not to wear fiber clothing!

Q: we have tried goo-be-gone, vinegar, bleach, toilet cleaner, laundry soap, rubbing alcohol, and baking soda: This is what we do at school to remove permanent marker from the white boards. It has also worked on regular chalkboards. Some teachers make the mistake of picking up the wrong marker, or picking it up instead of chalk! Get a marker for white boards. Trace over the permanent marker on your door and wipe it off immediately with paper towel or a cloth. If there's a lot, do it in small patches because even that marker will dry. It's not permanent, but you'll be adding extra work.

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