• 20w Mini Monocrystalline Solar Panels 3.0 CNBM System 1
  • 20w Mini Monocrystalline Solar Panels 3.0 CNBM System 2
20w Mini Monocrystalline Solar Panels 3.0 CNBM

20w Mini Monocrystalline Solar Panels 3.0 CNBM

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 set
Supply Capability:
300000 set/month

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Mini   Monocrystalline  Solar Panel  with 18W

20W Mini   Monocrystalline  Solar Panel  CNBM

 

 

Monocrystalline Solar Modules

We offers a range of small, medium and large monocrystalline solar modules, designed for a range of requirements.

Specifications:

Tolerance

+/- 3%

Cell

Monocrystalline silicon solar cells 
(125 x 125mm)

N0. of Cells

72 (12 x 6)

Dimension of Modules (mm)

1581 x 809 x 40

Weight (kg)

15.5

Limits:

Operating Temperature

-40~+85?

Storage Temperature

-40~+85?

Maximum System Voltage

1000 VDC max.

Hail Impact

Diameter of 28mm with impact speed of 86km/h

Temperature and Coefficients:

NOCT

48C+/-2?

Voltage temperature coefficient (%/K)

-0.34

Current temperature coefficient (%/K)

0.09

Power temperature coefficient (%/K)

-0.37

Characteristics:

Model:

SGM-160D

SGM-165D

SGM-170D

Max-power voltage Vmp (V)

34.5

35.4

35.8

Max-power current Imp (A)

4.64

4.66

4.75

Open-circuit voltage Voc (V)

41.75

43.6

43.32

Short-Circuit Current Isc (A)

5.32

5.08

5.38

Max-power Pm(W)

160

165

170

 

Model:

SGM-175D

SGM-180D

SGM-185D

Max-power voltage Vmp (V)

36.1

36.2

36.2

Max-power current Imp (A)

4.85

4.97

5.11

Open-circuit voltage Voc (V)

43.68

43.8

44.8

Short-Circuit Current Isc (A)

5.49

5.48

5.51

Max-power Pm(W)

175

180

185

STC: Irradiance 1000W/m2, Module temperature 25?, AM=1.5

 

Monocrystalline Solar Panels Specifications Range

Maximum Power (Pm)

Dimension

Weight

Operating Voltage (Vmp)

Operating Current (Imp)

Open Circuit Voltage (Voc)

Short Circuit Current (Isc)

3W

158x241x25mm

0.5kg

8.5V

0.36A

10.5V

0.4A

4W

308x166x25mm

0.77kg

8.5V

0.47A

10.5V

0.54A

4W

308.x166x25mm

0.77kg

16.8V

0.24A

21V

0.27A

5W

296x215x25mm

0.3kg

16.8V

0.48a

21V

0.54A

10W

286x406x25mm

1.5kg

16.8V

0.59A

21V

0.66A

12W

286x406x25mm

1.5kg

16.8V

0.71A

21V

0.8A

14W

286x541x25mm

2kg

16.8V

0.83A

21V

0.96A

16W

286x541x25mm

2kg

17.2V

0.93A

21.5V

0.99A

18W

296x541x25mm

2.4kg

18.8V

1.07A

21V

1.2A

20W

296x641x25mm

2.4kg

17.2V

1.15A

21.5V

1.24A

24W

541x451x25mm

3.15kg

16.8V

1.14A

21V

1.56A

26W

541x451x25mm

3.15kg

17.2V

1.51A

21.5V

1.63A

30W

296x966x25mm

3.85kg

16.8V

1.78A

21V

2.03A

36W

541x641x35mm

4.7kg

16.8V

2.14a

21V

2.4A

40W

541x641x35mm

4.7kg

17.2V

2.33A

21.5V

2.5A

55W

1057x457x35mm

6.6kg

17.6V

3.12A

21.6V

3.3A

70W

546x1196x35mm

8.5kg

16.8V

4.15A

21V

4.7A

75W

546x1196x35mm

8.5kg

17.2V

4.36A

21.5V

4.8A

80W

546x1196x35mm

8.5kg

17.6V

4.55A

21.6V

4.9A

110W

1066x811x40mm

11.8kg

17.6V

6.25A

21.6V

6.6A

150W

1066x811x40mm

14kg

34.4V

4.36A

43.2V

4.7A

 

Q: So, I've seen cheap solar panel kits for sale from Harbor Freight, and regardless of whether or not I were to buy a set from them or someone else, I was wondering what the process of implementing a small-scale solar system into your household electrical system would be.I've read articles that started out too in-depth or were speaking of systems on a much larger scale.Can it be as easy as buying the panels and inverter, and plugging it into a socket, or is there more to it?Some of the articles I was reading had mentioned having to contract with your electrical supplier, having to have an electrician tie it all in in some special/ necessary way, using a battery pack (would this be necessary for a tied-in system?), or using the system to only power single items, like a water heater, or plugging items into a connected battery-pack, all of which I'm not sure is necessary or needed for what my goals/ means are/ would be.
Take okorder /... This unit produces 45W for $90. Inverter is extra. Let's say this unit produces that amount of power for a full 2 hours a day, that's 45W * 2h = 540 Wh or 0.54kWh. If I save that from my electrical company, I would pay about 5 cents. $90 then takes 3800 days or 0 years. At that point, you haven't actually made any money, you've simply recovered what you paid out to buy the unit 0 years ago. Yes, electrical power prices will be going up over the long term but the output of this unit is also not going to be 45W over its lifetime (if it even lasts 0 years) so I really question the economics.
Q: Can solar panels be installed on south-facing windows?
Yes, solar panels can be installed on south-facing windows. South-facing windows receive the most sunlight throughout the day, making them an ideal location for solar panel installation.
Q: quot;Does it take more energy to produce a solar panel than what the same solar panel can generate in its useful lifetime?quot;
Thor is right and wrong. Solar panel will produce more than they take to make. My solar panels only have a 0 year estimated useful life. They may actually last longer, but with time they lose efficiency. Here in Phoenix where the sun shines all the time, a decent solar system you purchase and pay to have installed will pay back the original investment in 5-20 years. If you are a handyman and can install it yourself it will pay back sooner. Solar is a great system for reducing CO2 pollution, but until grid power rates increase a lot, it is still not very cost effective in most areas. It is also a myth that anyone can just install a solar system and get off grid power. Most people could not afford it, and most people would not like not having heat or air. Any system that normal people could afford could not supply anywhere near enough power for heating or air conditioning.
Q: Can solar panels be used in areas with high levels of shade or obstruction?
Solar panels can still be used in areas with high levels of shade or obstruction, but their efficiency and performance may be significantly reduced. Shade or obstructions like tall buildings, trees, or nearby structures can block sunlight, preventing the panels from receiving the necessary amount of light to generate optimal electricity. However, there are advanced technologies and design techniques available that can mitigate the impact of shading, such as using micro-inverters, optimizers, or tilting and positioning the panels to maximize sunlight exposure. Overall, while solar panels can still function in shaded areas, it is crucial to assess the level of shading and its potential impact on energy production before installation.
Q: Can solar panels be used in areas with high levels of heatwaves?
Yes, solar panels can be used in areas with high levels of heatwaves. In fact, solar panels are designed to convert sunlight into electricity, and they perform better in areas with higher levels of sunlight and heat. However, it is important to consider the impact of excessive heat on the efficiency and lifespan of solar panels. Proper installation, maintenance, and cooling measures may be required to ensure optimal performance in areas with extreme heat conditions.
Q: Does anyone know the earnings potential for the actual fitter of pv solar panels,and the electricians earnings.ty.
it depends on your solar panel, but you can sure supply most if all of your electronics and electric stuff in your house on a sunny day. If you want to know exactly how much power it supplies and how much $$ you can save you simply have to calculate how much power your home consumes per day/month. I know of people totally reliable on solar power for their home and I too will put solar panels on my home one day.
Q: For part of a school project how would I charge a car battery with a solar panel? The panel is 48V and 6A. This needs to be low budget so I can't buy an expensive controller, Is that the only way or are there other ways of doing it?
48 volts is rather uncomfortable. I would be inclined to modify the panel by cutting traces to give me a number of 5 volt sets. Most PV cells output about 700 mV, but check to see what yours does. Measure one cell, or count the number of cells and divide into the panel voltage. If you work with the 48 volt output, you are throwing 70% of the output away. The classic method of charging a lead/acid battery is to use the 0 hour rate...a 200 AH battery is charged at 20 amps. However if the charge is to be near continuous during daylight, I think I would go a little lower...say 5 amps in order to be kind to the battery. I note that your panel has a 6 amp output, so when you modify it, it should be able to deliver about 8 amps. A useful trick is to use car headlamp bulbs in series. The filament has a high positive thermal coefficient of resistance, and tends to act as a current regulator. In this case, I would use two dual filament bulbs with their filaments in parallel, arranged in series.
Q: I have two solar panels and I have measured that they produce V by themselves. I am trying to generate .5V, but whenever I hook them up in parallel I get something like .02V. What it happening?
Build okorder /
Q: Can solar panels be damaged by hail?
Yes, solar panels can be damaged by hail. Hailstones can cause physical damage to the panels, such as cracks or shattered glass, impairing their ability to generate electricity efficiently.
Q: I have an off-grid 24volt existing system using 8 x 80 watt 2volt, wired at 24volts, mono solar panels with deep cycle batteries,operating now. I have been given a 240 2volt polly cryst. panel. Can I add this panel to existing panels as above. Thank you, dumb solar man
Assuming that you have / will upgrade wiring sizes to carry the extra wattage, that the new total wattage resulting from the addition doesn't overload any existing charge controller, diodes and / or inverter you have installed, then paralleling it straight into one of the other 2 volt groups should do nothing but add current to the system. True, it will be somewhat imbalanced, but it will work. Your other options would be to reconfigure everything down to it's native 2 V configuration which will raise current and lower voltage, with the additional panel creating the additional current to raise the wattage or to put it in series with the other 4 panel clusters so that you would get 36 V and additional current to account for the raised wattage. One last approach might be to set it up on another battery bank of it's own (small and at 2 V) to then connect to the same inverter. You'd be getting more power and storage capability that way, sort of a partial backup system, really, that will take some of the load off the other components to help extend their useful lives and get a bit more flexibility into it as well. The choice is yours here. That is all the ways that the system can be connected in, assuming everything in the first sentence checks out;-) It's difficult to make a recommendation without knowing what other components are in use and what the maximum ratings they carry are. Just remember that parallel connections add current and voltage stays the same, series connections add voltage and the current remains the same and you can figure out what to do with this thing to help you if you stay within maximum ratings for the charge controller, diodes and / or inverter involved. Good luck and stay safe!

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