HY Series Chemical Submerged Pump(API 610)

HY Series Chemical Submerged Pump(API 610) System 1

HY Series Chemical Submerged Pump(API 610)

Ref Price:: $1,000.00 - 50,000.00 / set

Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 1000 set/month

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1. Description

HY series chemical submerged pump

Vertical centrifugal pump of single stage, end suction, with innovative design, energy-saving and green products.

Conform to API610 standard

2. Technical Data

Capacity: 3~3400m3/h

Head: 5~100

Temperature: -20~200℃

Nozzles: DN25~500mm

Pressure: 2.5MPa

3. Application

Petrochemical, chemical, metallurgical, depot, sewage treatment industries

Conveying toxic and corrosive liquid which is clean or contains only very little suspended particles and crystallized substances.

4. Materials

For wetted parts in contact with medium, the common materials are as followings:

S.S.304, 316, 316L, TA2, MCU, DTM, Cr15Mo3, M-3 etc.

5. Pump Structure

6. FAQ

1 Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

2 Where do I have to send pumps for service?

You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

3 Are your pumps acid-proofed?

To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

4 Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

5 Are your pumps protected against dry running?

No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

Q:Was I supposed to lube the water pump or what. I really don't know what it could be making the noise now. But it goes away after about 5-25 seconds of running, what could it be?: Check closely, you may find that the pulleys are not lined up completely. Have you had the power steering pump replace? Very common to have the pulley not pressed on completely, causing the ribbed belt to not ride properly on the pulley, causing squeaks.

Q:I have oil all over my water pump. I investigated when I saw a few drops of oil in the garage that showed up every few days. I then saw a drop of clean radiator fluid. Does oil come near or through the water pump? I have a 96 nissan maxima if that helps.: STUPID ANSWERS, these answers sound like ****, something a rip off shop would say. 1- buy engine degreaser, and go to the car wash or in the drive if you want to. 2- let the car warm ou, then turn it off and spray the degreaser every where theres oil and dirt. 3- Let stand about 10mins 4- turn the engine back one and use the pressured water (CAR WASH) to wash off the cleaner. You might have to repeat the soaking a few times depending on how long its been leaking. 5- once clean, you can either just let it idle in the drive way or go drive around alittle to see if you can get the oil leak to start again to see where its coming from. Once you find the leak either fix it or just take it to a respectable shop and get a quote for the repair. Dont start assuming that theres a huge problem. It sounds like its just the valve covers, but theres afew possible things that could leak on it. Do this and it will help you find any possible leaks.

Q:My friends car is a 1997 jeep wrangler. The belt broke and she took it in to get it replaced and they told her metal from the pully that broke got into the water pumpand they have to replace that to? WTF? it makes a squealing noise and they want to charge her another 300 for that! we just don't understand how that could be if the pump isn't even leaking?: A pump doesn't have to be leaking to be bad. But that doesn't really make a lot of sense that parts from a pulley could could get into a sealed system either. Loud squealing is usually from misalignment of the pulley to the belt. Meaning they aren't exactly in line with each other. I also don't see how a pulley broke if a belt broke. Unless there's more to it than what you've said here. It's possible that the water pump ceased and caused the belt to break in the first place. I wouldn't want to second guess a mechanic on a problem like this without seeing it or having more information about what happened. But it does sound a bit on the fishy side with breaking pulleys.

Q:I have an ls vtec set up on my 89 EF si, I want to install a better oil and water pump. I m thinking of going with GSR. BUt my question is are all years gsr oil, water pump the same? I think my ls Block is from 93-95 acura. which year gsr water oil pump can I use for my motor?. also I have a 2000 si head. do I have to change the timing belt? and Last question is should I use b16, gsr type r pumps? I heard gsr and type r have the same part #. Thanks: you need the GSR/Type-R water pump. This is one of the major causes of LS/VTEC failure. The GSR/Type-R has 22 teeth while the LS/GS has 19 teeth. The extra teeth cause it to spin faster pushing more water through the system. Any time you change something related that uses the timing belt, I ALWAYS install a new timing belt, and tensioner. That way there are no worries later.

Q:I need a water pump gasket for my mustang water pump.What can I use if I have no gasket material?: I wouldn't use anything except what was required for that pump installation because I wouldn't want to have to go back and do the whole job a second time if the pump leaks around the gasket area. A new gasket should come with a new pump. If not go back to a quality auto parts store and get a gasket. I'm not sure I'd trust the squeeze on gasket silicone in place of a gasket and I'd get Permatex gasket sealer to use with the new gasket on all surfaces before I reinstalled the pump. It's worth taking your time to do it right. Make sure there's no antifreeze coolant oozing onto the metal sealing surfaces, because the gasket won't seal unless the surfaces are clean and dry (been there, done that).

Q:n my water pump hoses feels like theres no pressure: dude its yur thermostat u need to replace it or it can even be yur coolant cap it can be on crooked or not on all the way look into both but ive had cars overheat on me for both reasons and ive had caars blow up on me due to both reasons so look into both

Q:After reaching a height of 50 feet , there should be enough pressure to hose around 20 to 30 feet of water from it for curing concrete structure ex: columns, slab area etc. How many inches ( diameter ) of rubber hose is required to plug the water pump for pumping water ?: It depends on your type of pump. Pumps delivering over 200 feet from bore well are usually multi-stage turbine type.

Q:my water pump has gone south on me and I want to repair it myself any ideas on how to will be greatly appreciated, do to space between the water pump of the engine and the chasi or body of the van that makes working on thi vehicle kind of difficult any knoledgeable instruction will be welcome. thanks for the help. I am in California,the name is Elmer: Here's okorder /

Q:We bought a second hand Rover 75, three months later head gasket blew. This was replaced but blew again due to original wet liners. A reconditioned engine was then put in but head gasket blew again due to original water pump. I am not trying to ascertain blame i would just like to know which is accurate as car seller is saying fault of mechanic as should have changed wet liners and water pump and mechanic is saying it is not common practice to change this parts when you replace a head gasket or engine. Thanks for any clarification, especially if you are a mechanic yourself.: Well the answer is..... I am going to take a guess that this is a Rover K series engine. They blow the head gasket just for something to do. Terrible problem when the engine was a 1.4 and it only got worse as they bored the engines out. The original fault will be poor maintenance and a failure to ensure it always has loads of anti freeze or corrosion inhibitor in there. That makes the liner to block interface corrode. The second is more controversial, if I knew the water pump was fairly new then I would probably not fit a new one with an exchange engine. If however the water pump was old or an unknown quantity then I would almost certainly change it, and the clutch too, if I had the engine out as it's such a fiddly job to do. BUT who was paying for the work? If it was you then this would have added a fair bit to the bill (if you didn't tell him to change it then really you can't complain that he didn't do it) and it it was warranty work then the terms of the warranty might set out what was supposed to be done. Rhys

Q:I have a new water pump with its new gasket to be installed tomorrow. Do I still need to apply a gasket sealer (blue RTV silicone) on the gasket itself? If I do, do I need to apply it on both sides of the gasket? Thank you.: that completely depends on the year/make and model, and type of gasket that it uses.

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