Auto Lighting System DC 12V 0.23A 0.2Wwith White CM-DAY-060

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Loading Port:: Shenzhen

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Min Order Qty:: 100pcs pc

Supply Capability:: 20000 Pcs Per Month pc/month

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CONTROLLER KZQW22 ELECTRICAL BIKE ORGINAL

Auto Lighting System DC 12V 0.23A 0.2W/ LED 6000K~7000K 280-320LM SMD 5050 White CM-DAY-060 1. Unique and beautiful design

2. Imported high power LED lighting source. attractive fashion style

3. Easy installation, anti-collision, OEM Fitment

4. Stable excellent Performance,waterproof, anti-aging, against antioptica, energy saving, anti-interference, heat-endurance

5. Easy installation, comes with install guidance.

Q:ABS light is on, what does that mean, how do i get it off, and how much $$ will it cost me to get it off (ballpark figure)?Thanks, John: You have a front left wheel speed sensor and a front right wheel speed sensor. They are two different parts. You can buy them from autozone or wherever for like 50 -100 dollars each, or you can get them on OKorder for like 15 - 20 bucks each. Easy enough part to replace yourself. Basically one electrical connector that just plugs in, and one little bolt that holds the sensor in place. Two hour job yourself max if you do both of them.

Q:I have a 2003 Mazda 6. Two weeks ago my check engine light came on. I was told that the code was 126 - And that there was a problem with the coolant system and obtaining optimal performance. The thermastat was replaced and all was OK for a week. However today while driving, I noticed the light come back on. The dashboard guage showed that the engine was running colder than normal (even after for driving on the highway for over 40 miles). Any ideas why the car would be running cold? Is it a bad idea to continue driving the car till I can get into the shop? I would like to have an idea of what needs to be fixed before I bring the car in - As they are always trying to take advantage.: The cooling fan may be stuck on, but it sounds like you are getting the run around. It is possible a faulty thermostat was installed again. It may be opening ok, but not closing when it should. At this point i would check for the coolant temp sensor. You should have 5 volts to it, and if you check both wires it should be at around .5 volts when the car is running at operating temp. It should be in the cylinder head, 2 wires.

Q:I just bought a 2003 Corolla 71K miles end of feb. Now i haven‘t had a problem with the car at all but last week i had checked the antifreeze and the over Flow was dry in my old car i Always had it in there (told my mechanic to do so) now the radiator itself looked empty as well but when i filled it it didn‘t take much so im guessing there was some since i didn‘t overheat either. well now last night we went out and did a bunch of things came home got up at 5 this morning for work and my check engine light was on , so we didn‘t drive it. later on we checked fluid they are finei didn‘t get gas or anything i know that sometimes sets that light off but i did mess with it just in case its still on any idea what this lights on for?!?! can i go to like advanced auto part for a test?BTW- I heard that its my oxygen sensor. but if this is true. i just bought the car in feb in which it was also inspected as of 02/09. are they liable? even though my warranty is up?: a O2 sensor can go bad at any given time as far as the anti freeze park it where out can see a wet spot if there is a leak,could be the water pump is about to go out or a hose clamp is loose or bad hose.I don't think they are liable for any thing cars break.

Q:I have a 99 pontiac sunfire breeze and there is a light that is coming on in the dash saying ETS off. I can not find it in the book and the people at the auto store dont know what it means either. Could anyone help me on this?: i would definitely go with the re-bock 10k altho me personally would rather go with a easton ST

Q:car has a miss very noticeable in stop and go traffic changed fuel rail sensor and still the same: Do yourself a huge favor and take it to a reputable repair facility! The little thing that autozone uses is called a code reader not a proper diagnostic. All it will do is pull up an engine code from the ECM that states lets use for example bank 1 low fuel pressure or lean condition along with bank 2 lean condition. You as a consumer think it must be its not getting enough fuel so you waste tons of money dumping part after part after part into becasue the minimum wage counter guy at the autozone said it was that or that he thinks its that. But a reputable mechanic will put a true diagnostics machine on your car and see that and automaticall start testing the mass air flow sensor for the proper readings which is a sensor not even in the fuel system! Let me tell you I worked for autozone for many of years in the past and that thing only wastes your time but also money if the hot shot counter guy thinks he knows what he is talking about. Remember ase certified parts specialsts was created so all the big boxed stores want you to believe they know parts and what they are talking about when in actually it took my Regional manager for all of MI 8 times to pass itso do yourself a favor.spend 70-90 bucks now to get a proper diagnostics to figure exactly what it is and remember just because they work in a parts store don't mean they know what they are talking about. The smart counter people move on to better parts stores.

Q:The car left the house fine, with no indicator lights. After I got back in after leaving the bank, both the Brake and Battery light came on. I parked it back at the house and the fluid level is fine, the oil level is fine, and the belts are intact (as far as I can tell). I went back later to start the car and it sounded like it turned over, although it apparently did not as the RPMs were 0, it was super quiet, and when put into gear, it would not budge or rev. The brake jammed up too but I was able to get it back in park. then the check engine and oil pressure lights came on! The air was blowing hot and the radio was still playing. I turned it back off and it revved and the air was cool again, although the original two lights were still one (the others turned off). I didn‘t put it into gear so I can‘t speak on it this time around. The car has had a recent alternator and battery change (last year) and a wreck sometime long ago, before my dad got it.WHAT IS UP?: Multiable warning lights sounds like another alternator issue. Better have the charging system and battery tested. If you can hook up a battery charger and a auto parts store is near by drive it over or call dad to check to test and replace the alternator. Good Luck

Q:Ok so today i go to work. Clock in, work, clock out. Sure enough when i walk out, what do i see. I see my lights are on and very dim. I know immediately what happened. So just to try. I try to start it. It doesnt make a noise. So i go inside and find my friend who just got off work as well. We try and jump it. It turns over as usual but it wont fire. Then my dad gets there and we get it to fire. Turns out i had to give the gas pedal a little pump. So it runs, but the engine light stays on. I figure its because my battery is super close to dead, completely dead. However, my jeep wont idle. If i let off the gas completely the rpms just go down until it dies. So that makes me think, maybe the engine light is on for something other than the battery. Before work it was fine, absolutely nothing wrong. I got it home, after it dying once on the way home. So whats wrong. Is it the battery. Or is it something thats gonna cost me an arm and leg to fix? I certainly hope not. Thanks.: Start off with the simplest thing, charge the battery and see what happens. If the battery won't take a charge then you know the problem. If a battery is on the old side leaving the lights on could deep discharge it enough to kill a cell or two. If it won't take a charge then you need a new battery. If it does take a charge put it back in the Jeep and after you start it check the voltage of the charging system with a voltmeter. If you don't have access to a voltmeter go to an Advance Auto Parts or CarQuest and see if they can check your charging system. Some parts places will do it for free. If you don't have a battery charger try to borrow a battery from another vehicle (one you know that is charged) and see what happens when you run the Jeep with the other battery.

Q:I have a 2004 Honda Accord LX 2 Dr. it has cruise control *the guy at the auto parts store asked, so I thought that might matter* and it is a 4 cyl. I am getting ready to sell it, the guy buying it wanted to take it to a mechanic to have it looked over, I agreed. At the end of the inspection, the mechanic said that everything was great except my brake lights didn‘t work. All the brake lights are out. I assumed it was the fuse, as did my BF.but after checking I don‘t see a brake light fuse. I really don‘t want to have to go through each fuse. My brother is mechanically inclined, and said it seems more likely to be the brake light switch as he checked the fuses he thought it was. So what does everyone else think? Ask for any additional information you need. Thanks a lot!: Check the bulb. If it is burnt out replace it, there are two elements in them, one for signaling the other for brakes. If this does not correct the problem check bulb socket for corrosion and the wires leading to the sockets to make sure they are connected. I suspect you have a loose wire or connector check the trunk for wires on the back of the light assembly. These maybe contained in the side wall assembly. This would require you to remove the light lens and look at the connectors in behind them! Most Jobbers (folks who do auto work as a hobbie or auto wreckers or brothers who are mechanically inclined etc.) can fix this relatively cheep! Hope this helps. Of course see if you can get it your self first but if you get stuck try the above idea! Also if your the hands on type ask if they would mind you observing for future reference, but be sure to respect there space so they can do their work. There is nothing worse then having a critic hanging over your shoulder when your working.

Q:message/light is still on. Any suggestion on what I need to do?: Is the the check engine light? That means there's an error somewhere in the emissions system. The first and easiest thing to check is the gas cap to make sure it's tight. If that's not it, it's likely a sensor problem. You can look around the engine compartment to make sure there aren't any disconnected or damaged wires. Beyond that, it's probably best to have the error codes read. The codes can be read at a dealership or repair shop but most auto parts stores should also be able to do it. Each error code corresponds to a more specific problem, for example a malfunctioning oxygen sensor (that's a common one).

Q:I have a 1997 Plymouth Breeze with the 2.0 four cylinder engine. The light came on over the weekend and I took the car straight to Auto Zone for a scan of the OBD2 system. The only code that registered was P1494, I called the chysler dealership and they said it was a leak in the evap system. Most likely cause was a loose or missing gas cap. I checked for this, and even went to the expense of buying a new one. After the new cap was installed, I had the code erased. I reset my trip meter and drove about 90 miles and the light came back on. I‘ve had a mechanic check the lines and hoses running from the fuel tank to the charcoal canister and then to the engine. All were tight and in good shape. I was also told by the dealership that the leak detection pump might be bad. This is a small vacume pump that keeps a constant vacume to the evap system. My Haynes manual shows this pump, but my mechanic says there isn‘t one on my car. I‘m now being told the problem is my O2 sensors??????: generally when the check engine light comes on it's usually an O2 sensor needing replaced. however it could be something else. check in your haynes manual on how to short the diagnostic code and to read the code it gives.some cars are actually made to have the check engine light come on at a certain mileage to have the emissions system tested. and if it is an O2 sensor dont worry about it go to auto zone pick one up it's probably about $20 and replace it. it screws into your exhaust pipe towards the front of your engine you can't miss it,it'll be the only thing sticking out of your pipe with a wire hooked to it and should only take about 5-10 minutes to replace.

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1. Manufacturer Overview
Location	YIWU,China
Year Established	2009
Annual Output Value
Main Markets	Mid East；Western Europe
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates
a) Certification Name
Range
Reference
Validity Period

3. Manufacturer Capability
a)Trade Capacity
Nearest Port	SHANGHAI
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department	20 People
Language Spoken:	Chinese
b)Factory Information
Factory Size:	Above 2,000 square meters
No. of Production Lines	About 5
Contract Manufacturing	OEM Service Offered；Design Service Offered
Product Price Range	Cheap