Auto Brake Pads for Toyota Hiace 04465-25040 D1344-8455

Auto Brake Pads for Toyota Hiace 04465-25040 D1344-8455

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:Toyota HIACE

Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Front

Width:145.4mm

Height:56.9mm

Thickness:15.5mm

Oe:04465-25040

Fmsi:D1344-8455

Wva:21468

Trw:Gdb3059

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements

Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request

Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China

HS Code:8708301000

Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month

Product Description

We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers!

You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service

Our Advantage

1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series.

2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands.

3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world.

4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products.

And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi.

5> We can produce as your samples.

6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads.

Detailed Specification

1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad

2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic

3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001

4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons

5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery

6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets

7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin

8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month

9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit

10. Payment terms: T/T

Auto Brake Pads for Toyota Hiace 04465-25040 D1344-8455

Q:I‘m interested in knowing the manufacturing process of the motrcycle parts mentioned:piston,engine block, brake shoe. Also, a full equipment requirement for manufacturing these products and the dealers involved as well as the invoices for these equipment. It‘s not impossible but tasking: Most of the parts are cast aluminum or iron. Google the rest under casting machines equipment as it is too tasking to put everything here.

Q:They work when I have the headlights on and If I gently squeeze the front lever but they go if I push it any further. They won‘t work at all with the back lever.This has also stopped my electric start working except if I use it when I gently squeeze the front lever. I have a 2007 Kymco miler 125 if it helps.: For the rear brake it sounds like all you have to do is adjust the switch on the backside of the footrest.It should have a long spring attached to the brake lever and the switch.Adjust the switch by turning the nut on top of the bracket-all you want is the spring to be straight,not tight-it will then activate the brake light when you step on itThe front sounds like a faulty switch.

Q:a high performance road bike with disc brakes appeals to me, a bike I would not race and would put in a couple hundred miles a week witham I insane?: Based on my previous years of experience disc brakes on bicycles are used for one of two reasons. One, because the amount of stopping power required is more than can be generated by standard pad-on-rim designs. Sometimes a 'drum' style brake is used instead (Ala rear tandem brakes). The second reason is if the riding conditions a bicycle is likely to be ridden are muddy, wet or messy which would tend to 'gum' up a standard caliper style brake (anybody that's tried to stop a mountain bike that has just completed a messy creek crossing can understand this perfectly). That is why many mountain bikes -- and I suppose some cycle cross bicycles -- use disc brakes instead of calipers. For the most part I tend to think that road bicycles would not have either of these issues as there generally is not enough weight (or mass) to require the stopping power of a disc brake nor is a road bike likely to encounter muddy or messy enough conditions to warrant a caliper brake useless. Furthermore, and I'm certainly no physicist, but given the relatively small amount of tire patch touching the road surface at any given time it would seem to me the sheer stopping power of disc brake may cause the wheels to just lock up rendering the bicycle uncontrollable. No, I'd just as soon stick with my calipers on my road bike than take that chance with disc brakes.

Q:I understand that as with anything you get what you pay for. But it blows my mind when I read something like the brakes on this bike aren‘t great but they‘ll stop you eventually in a motorcycle review. The brakes are a safety item and should be required to be of the highest quality and stopping power on ANY motorcycle. They may not need to be Brembos or whatever but budget brakes are unacceptable. No?: The brakes of a bike variety. in many circumstances the bigger the disc (and style of discs) and the better style of pistons in the calipers, mixed with various resources, recommend a more suitable brake performance. No new bike will be offered with brakes that are incapable of forestalling a bike from its suitable speed, they extremely move the most appropriate power on a bike, actually outperforming the engine. Braking is a ability, as major as the different at the same time as operating a vehicle, they are not switches, you are able to't take care of them gently – the obstacles on braking are dictated by utilizing highway situations and the area you are able to note. there's a holding, “in user-friendly words bypass as quick as you will see that”, in different words in case you will see that in user-friendly words a short distance then you surely ought to bypass slower supplying you with time and area to brake once you hit upon a tractor only around the nook.

Q:upshifting and downshifting, how to know when to shift, how to shift when slowing down while applying the brake?: these are all good answers. and it's true, it's just something that you get a feel for after riding. as for physically shifting: up-shifting: 1.) pull in the clutch while letting off the throttle. (this should be simultaneous. If you pull the clutch in w/out easing off the throttle youll hear the bike rev to hell likewise, cut the throttle without the clutch and youll feel the bike jerk) 2.) click the shifter up with your foot. ( it's 1-N-2-3-4-5-6. So from neutral you will click down to get into first gear. after that its just click up to get into 2nd 3rd so forth. neutral is a half click between 1-2) 3.) You should have had the clutch still pulled in during step 2. Now you're letting the clutch out slowly and giving it gas at the same time. This will take a while to really get down and be smooth. Its called rev matching, youre trying to get your engine up to the rpm to match how fast wheels would be turning at. A lot of people 'blip' the throttle, just give the throttle a quick twist while letting out the clutch. (just go slow at first though) Downshifting is basically the same process except for step 2, youre shifting down now instead of up. If im slowing down, ill downshift when the rpms start getting into the 3k range. you usually want to keep your bike in the right gear so that you still have power when you need it, see the above posts for the lugging term.

Q:So, in november I got into a motorcycle accident. Someone pulled out in front of me and I slammed on my brakes and ate pavement before I hit their car. I had been riding for 2 years before the incident, and I am a good, well-trained rider. Now I have scars, and it has been hard for me to recover, emotionally from this incident. I just finished repairing my bike, and I want to ride again. But I am honestly hesitant and scared to. Any advice?: The best way is just to get back on your bike. If you are uncomfortable, pace yourself. Start riding on side streets and small trips just to get back into the mindset. In your instance it's not your fault the accident occurred. You need to trust other drivers again before you are more comfortable on your bike. Another tactic could just be that you need to become an extra cautious biker (I know several!). Either way, you'll get back into it. Good luck!

Q:Ok so Im looking to buy a motorcycle. Im 16 ill be 17 in 4 months. Im taking tests on the net to help me so ill be ready for a bike at 18. I want to get a motorcycle because they have more benefits than a car like they get better gas mileage and theyre cheaper than buying a car and because I think theyre cool. I have a few questions about buying them and all. 1) Do you have to have a drivers licence before you can drive a motorcycle? 2) How old do you have to be in NYS to own a motorcycle? 3) when they put you through the course to learn how to drive it what are the obsticles like? 4) Is motorcycle insurance cheaper than car insurance? Thats all the questions I have know but ill probably think of more to ask :) Thanks for any answers :): 1. In N.Y.S. you need a motorcycle license. 2. You can 'own' at any age. You can 'drive at 18, (16 in some rural areas under 'learner' limits). 3. It's a standard driving test with 'skill' portions, (slow circles and figure 8s), in a limted space aded. 4. Liability insurance is still pretty high if the bike can carry a passenger. General. * Yeah, they're pretty 'cool' all right, 'specially when you get caught a long way from home in bad weather. * They lose a lot of 'cool' when you're reminded that there's only a layer of denim between your butt and a whole lot of hard, uncompromising, high speed, reality. * They don't get mileage all that better than the new more efficient cars.(35 MPG in cruise)

Q:I want to know how to change gears start the engine brake, everything on operating these motorcycles. thanks: The only Real difference I can remember is that British bikes shifted on the right and kickstarted. The rest is just adjusting to older tech. Practice on something replaceable, like a new Ninja or Hayagusa.

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