AuAuto Brake Pads for Nissan Almera/Primera 41060-4U125

AuAuto Brake Pads for Nissan Almera/Primera 41060-4U125 System 1

AuAuto Brake Pads for Nissan Almera/Primera 41060-4U125

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:Toyota HIACE

Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Front

Width:145.4mm

Height:56.9mm

Thickness:15.5mm

Oe:04465-25040

Fmsi:D1344-8455

Wva:21468

Trw:Gdb3059

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements

Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request

Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China

HS Code:8708301000

Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month

Product Description

We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers!

You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service

Our Advantage

1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series.

2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands.

3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world.

4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products.

And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi.

5> We can produce as your samples.

6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads.

Detailed Specification

1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad

2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic

3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001

4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons

5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery

6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets

7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin

8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month

9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit

10. Payment terms: T/T

AuAuto Brake Pads for Nissan Almera/Primera 41060-4U125

Q:Can it cause the motorcycle to move erratically or what?: If you were leaned over in a corner, it would wobble like poo, but in a straight line there shouldn't be any dramas

Q:How did you get from never rode a motorcycle to doing wheelies on the freeway? (What were the steps you took to being able to drive one) and advice on safety and necessary precautions.What do I need to know about motorcycle accidents. I am interested in saving on gas for a cost efficient vehicle and a good beginner motorcycle. And thank you this means a lot.: You are asking about safety, then about riding wheelies on the freeway. That is two opposites of the spectrum. Doing stunts like wheelies do not belong on the freeway, that is the stupidest thing you can do on a motorcycle. You are endangering your life and anyone around you. Also giving motorcyclist a bad name. Doing that kind of riding on a large parking lot, or closed course is great if you can do it, but it's not for the public roads. As far as learning how to ride, I and any good rider, would suggest that you take the Motorcycle Safety Foundation or MSF classes, they have them in every state. Check online.

Q:hello i just bought a suzuki gz 250 for a starter bike and i noticed when i move the bike i can hear a grinding sound coming from the front brakes even when im not applying any brakes now when i do apply brakes is sounds like metal on metal obvously i need new pads already on there way but why is the caliper sticking when there isnt any break beeing applyed i checked the fluid level and quilty and there dosnt seem to be anything wrong in that area will the new pads fix these probs and if not what should i do thank you: Always give year, make, engine size and model # when asking questions. We need all of that info to give an informed answer. The calipers may need to be rebuilt. Gunk from bad brake fluid builds up under the seals and squeeze against the piston, preventing it from returning. Tap the caliper towards the rotor (disk) with a soft hammer, or the heel of your foot. It will push the piston back into the caliper. If that temporally clears up the noise, then the caliper should be repaired. That's one reason to change the brake fluid once a year.

Q:i wanna learn the motorcycle willy.?: Best perfomed wearing nothing but leather chaps and a leather beenie while riding in the San Francisco GLT parade. Someone there will teach you.

Q:how to maintain motorcycle brake?: dont used them much and replace pads before them wear out use front more than back work back and front together drag your feet more not sure what you mean not much to it you use them to stop you replace them when wore out use the front a bit more than back

Q:And should I rev/accelerate as required for the gear ?I am learning how to ride motorcycle. Some says you don‘t have to rev/accelerate in downhill . Doesn‘t it cause bike to stall ?: Question is too general to give a correct answer. The correct gear and accelerator usage will depend on - How steep the hill is How long the hill is How fast you want to be going What us coming up next Road surface condition Weather condition. There is nothing that says you need to change down or up or stay in the same gear. There is nothing to say that you need to close the accelerator, open it up or keep it as it was. If the hill is long and would need you to use the brakes for a long time to be at the speed you need then you need to change down maybe one or 2 gears which will allow the engine to give some braking effect thus needing the brakes less. Having to use the brakes a lot on a long descent could cause them to heat up more than normal which will cause them to fade in strength until they cool again - you do not want that. If you do have to change down a gear and are not slowing down then you will need to blip the accelerator to bring the engine speed up to the new engine speed required by the lower gear. Your worries about the engine stalling are strange. I hope that this is not because you are using the rear brake too much. New riders, particularly those that have had little or no teaching, tend to think that the rear brake is the best one to use - IT MOST DEFINITELY IS NOT. If you are using the rear a lot when you change down it is possible to lock it either momentarily or longer thus stalling the engine. It is more than possible to use a motorcycle without ever using the rear brake. Many motorcycle racers never use the rear for anything other than stopping a wheelie happening. There is a reason why the front brake is much more powerful than the rear - because it needs to be.

Q:I‘ve wanted a motorcycle for a while now and I‘ve been doing a little research. I‘ve read a lot about engine braking but I‘m not entirely sure on what it is. Can someone please explain it to me and list the steps involved. Or a good link about it would be just fine.thanks: A scenario: You're rolling along at 50 MPH, and you close the throttle. The engine acts as a brake to slow the bike. Engine braking refers to the engine acting as an air pump and slowing the bike down. Because the butterfly valve in the throttle body is closed, not much air can get into the cylinder as the piston descends, so the piston is sucking against a vacuum, which takes a lot of energy. That energy isn't coming from the fuel, as in most modern fuel-injected engines, if the throttle is closed and the engine is above idle speed, all fuel is shut off to improve mileage, since it's assumed the engine is in braking mode. So, the energy to keep the engine spinning in this situation is coming from the drive train, which is in turn getting its energy from the momentum of the bike. Thus, as the energy is transferred back into the engine from your forward momentum, it slows you down. That is engine braking. Note that on diesels and some newer fuel-injected gasoline engines, there is no throttle-body butterfly valve, so there is very little engine braking.

Q:i haven‘t been able to get the front brake working right. The caliper won‘t release all the way which causes the brake to drag. So far I have put a new caliper on and changed the brake fluid and bleed it but that still didn‘t solve the problem. If you could give me any input at all I would really appreciate it.: I'm surprised nobody mentioned the master cylinder. I need to overhaul mine because it acts exactly like yours. I suspect it's the little return orfice that's plugged. If you can grasp the disc with your fingers and use your palms or thumbs to push the caliper toward the disc and it releases the disc, then it's the master cylinder. If you can't compress it or it's really hard to do and you're absolutely sure it's not the piston stuck, then it could be an old brake hose that with age has swelled internally and restricts the flow of fluid back to the master cylinder. I've had that problem several times on old cars and trucks. One way to tell is to pump the brake lever so that the brake is really tight and then slightly loosen the banjo bolt that holds the brake hose against the master cylinder. If none or very little fluid leaks out but fluid under pressure exits the banjo bolt at the caliper, then you know it's the hose. If it exits under pressure at the master cylinder, that's the problem.

Q:Motorcycle tail light works, brake light does not?: bad bulb ,or the fuse is blown,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

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