• MgO Board for Exhaust Heat Shield System 1
  • MgO Board for Exhaust Heat Shield System 2
  • MgO Board for Exhaust Heat Shield System 3
  • MgO Board for Exhaust Heat Shield System 4
MgO Board for Exhaust Heat Shield

MgO Board for Exhaust Heat Shield

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Introduction of MgO board:

MgO Board is a new type green decorative board which is processed by special production process . It is used modified magnesia cement as the basic material,glass fiber cloth as the reinforced material, 

and light-weight material as the stuffing.

 

Specifications of MgO Board:

1) Thickness: 3-25mm

2) Max. width: 1,220mm

3) Max. length: 3050mm

Composition of MgO Board:

Raw materials of  MgO board

MgO Board for Exhaust Heat Shield

Technical Data of MgO Board:

MgO Board for Exhaust Heat Shield


Advantages of MgO board:

 1. Fireproof

It was tested by the National Center for Quality Supervision and Testing of Fire Building Materials (NFTC). 

Its fireproof level is rated level A (nonflammable level)

2.Water proof:

 MgO board  can keep its shape and character after soaking in water for a few days. 

3.Sound insulation and heat insulation

MgO board  have a good sound insulation and heat insulation quality.  

4.Environmental protection:

 MgO board  is asbestos-free, no formaldehyde and benzene,100% green boards.

5.Easy to install:

can be sawing, planning, drilling, nailing and cutting etc.

6.Lightweight and Strong strength

Wellyoung MgO board  can totally saving the cost in terms of lightening the load from reducing the foundation, subject,

 column and beams of the construction, Improve the inner usable area 5-8%.

7.High quality, competitive price and good after-sale service


Q: So can you? Just an idea, its cheap,and im talking about the one without any additives or pesticides.
Sand sounds okay, the only thing about it is if you don't find the eggs soon enough then they might dehydrate. . . Maybe if you mix the sand with the jungle mix? or vermiculite (which is really cheap) If you are suspecting your lizard to lay eggs you should put a lay box just in case. You don't have to put her in the lay box, just make the box accessible to the lizard. . . She may just lay them in her cage. . . My gecko did that even though it had a lay box.
Q: In Hydroponics, which is better material to use in place of soil , vermiculite, perlite or other?
Gold flecks most likely Vermiculite. paired seed leaves erm, wind borne weeds.
Q: I have a bag of vermiculite and I have read how it can contain asbestos. Now I'm not sure I want to use it anymore. Does the horticultural vermiculite contain asbestos?
Keep him on the calcium carbonate sand. First of all it is similar to what they are on in the wild, which is soil or sand. And they dig as a natural behavior. Secondly it is slightly digestable if they eat it (but make sure they are getting a high quality calcium suppliment like Mineral I so they dont eat it because too much ingested can cause impaction).The calcium carbonate sand also retains heat well, and cannot harbor parasites such as mites because it is inorganic, dry, and constantly shifting which means any parasites that might get in the cage cannot reproduce because the constantly shifting sand desicates the eggs so any parasites will quickly die off.Stick with the calcium carbonate sand. Ive used it on leopard geckos for 20 years and never had a single problem with impaction.
Q: It would be fine to use very very dried plantation soil for my bearded dragon right? I figure there wouldnt be a problem. I dont use a water dish for him cause he's usually well hydrated and he never would drink from it or go in it. he's well hydrated cause I give him a bath once a week and there's lettuce in his diet (not just lettuce so i dont want those people who are all like quot; oh just lettuce isent good enough blahh blahh blahhquot; I already know..) but ya since theres no water in a dish to spill in the soil to cause high humidity, I figure the very dried out exo terra coconut husk plantation soil wouldnt be a bad idea? any one doing this ? comments please ( just kinda sick of the sand look )
Yes you can mix parakeet mix yourself, the mix you are suggesting is not a good mix, you need other varieties of millet Red ,Japanese and White millet, do not mix Oats, this is too fattening and should only be used in winter months.l Millet that is used for human consumption is an excellent idea this is much fresher than buying from a pet store. Your mix would be better at 20% -30 % all round,but it all depends on what you can buy.you should always feed your bird some green vegetables even carrot. As has been suggested sprouting seed is very good,it also gives you some idea of the quality and freshness, if it sprouts quickly.
Q: What is the cost?
As hydra... said - Use vermiculite. I've used it for many years with excellent results.
Q: I have a Lab Report due tommorow and I don‘t know how chunkier soil effects the growth of a plant.
Chunky soil contains a lot of clay and holds in water and is good for plants like cabbages and Brussels sprouts.
Q: if growing indoor with a grow light
EmilyM.you're nerve-racking your little head approximately no longer something. The flowers pronounced will strengthen in any smart soil. They do like a super style of sunlight. flowers choose for slightly time to place down roots and the want no longer coach any develop till this occurs, so wait and spot, it quite is barely the commencing up of the starting to be season
Q: Does anyone know where I can buy Vermiculite for gardening other than online?
I've been dealing with raccoons (the same female I think) for 3 years. The first thing I recommend for everyone who see raccoons in their neighborhood is to do a thorough inspection of your house to make sure raccoons or squirrels have no access to you attic. Next at the first sign of infestation get a a couple nylon socks, place at least 5 moth balls in it, then soak the nylon socks in pinesol. Throw/place these socks in several locations through out the attic. The smell is very unpleasant for them and they move, but you have to monitor daily. Racoons are smart and they will do their best to remove the offensive smelling socks out of the attic, simply put the socks back again. Also loud noise makes them uncomfortable, I recommend putting a radio in the attic on a metal rock station or a talk show. If you get the chance, shoot the critters, cause they will return every year. Trust me I'm dealing with it!
Q: I am a bit confused as to where I put the humidity sensor, on top of the perlite, in the perlite or a few inches from it as obviously the perlite will be moister than the atmosphere. Also how deep do I bury the eggs? I have a herpnurseryII, any tips for sucessful hatching?
Well, I like things simple and care free. I very seldom have to mist a box once I set it up until hatching occurs. I don't just put them into the incubator. I put them into clear plastic lidded tubs with a 3 layer of vermiculite. Wet the vermiculite. Squeeze out all the excess water so you have a snowball in your fist. Open your hand and it should hold its shape. Touch it with a finger on the other hand and it should crumble/fall part easily. That's moist enough. Beginners usually make the mistake of keeping the hatching medium too moist. I used to put a small hole in the container top until I lost a few eggs to friggin #%#%#%#$% (censored) fruit fly maggots a few years ago. Now I don't vent the container or tops at all. I open them for a moment every 1-2 wk. to circulate fresh air (they aren't airtight to begin with and I'm not sure that's even necessary). I don't like to bother my eggs. I do as little as possible to them. I don't remove one unless it molds. I never bury an egg. I make a depression with my fingertip about 1/2 as deep as the egg is wide and place it into the depression, Sharpie mark up, then firm the medium snug to the egg, leaving 1/2 the egg exposed. I have two humidity meters in the box but these days, I never even look at them anymore. I can tell from placing a fingertip to the medium if it needs a bit more moisture. If you do need to add some, use a spray bottle and lightly mist the sides (not the eggs), to permit the water to drip down into the medium. It doesn't take much to bring the humidity back up. You don't want to see moisture built up and dripping from the lid - this can drown your embryos. If you feel better using the probe, then you'll want to sit it inside the container, barely seated into the medium long ways. I highly recommend using covered containers. Good luck, and enjoy your new babies.
Q: I've heard of quot;Hatch Ritequot; and quot;Perlitequot; and quot;Vermiculitequot; as being good substrates... but I've also heard of the last two being dangerous (like the dust or something). Any suggestions or experiences?
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