Brake pads Non-Asbestos Car Friction Brake Pads

Brake pads Non-Asbestos Car Friction Brake Pads System 1

Brake pads Non-Asbestos Car Friction Brake Pads

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Specifications

Brake pads
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

Crossing Reference Number				Application
Crossing Reference Number				Application
FMSI	D1203-8323	FERODO	FDB1313	Scania Benz Man Iveco DAF
WVA	29087	WVA	29059
WVA	29106	WVA	29105
WVA	29062	WVA	29061
WVA	29060	WVA	29046
WVA	29045	WVA	29042
WVA	29202	WVA	29201
WVA	29179	WVA	29163
WVA	29109	WVA	29108
O.E.M.	0034201620	O.E.M.	0024204920
O.E.M.	082135100	O.E.M.	0044202220
O.E.M.	2992348	O.E.M.	1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design.

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

Brake pads Non-Asbestos Car Friction Brake Pads

Q:hey everyone i had a question about motorcycles. my question is what is a good honda beginner bike im 18 and i have a car and i want a bike one of my friends has one and says how fun it is but anyways i am looking at 2 at the moment links: motorcycle.honda.ca/sport/cbr250r/2011 and motorcycle.honda.ca/sport/cbr1000rra/2011 i am not buying it its a grad gift and they said anything over 10,000 i‘d have to pay the extra im going to keep it for a long time so is 1000cc‘s to powerful for a beginner or is 250 good or should i maby go for a 600 i have rode dirtbikes before but i dont have my own and i am going to go to a motorcycle school in a few weeks so ya i really like the 1000 but my friend said it might be to much for a beginner. Thanks,Matt:): If your experience with motorcycles has been looking and wishing, I'd start you on a 250. If you know how to ride already and yearn for the freeway, there's a big gap up from the 250 and 600 might be your choice. If all you intend to do is have fun on the weekends, the 250 should make you happy a few years. Even after riding more than 20 years, I don't need a 1000. That kind of power just makes you act a fool.

Q:I need to install a mechanical NOT a hydraulic brake switch onto my motorcycle. The bike is a 1978 Suzuki DR 370 enduro. The tail light bulb contains 2 filaments but I only get 2 wires coming out of the back of the tail light. I was told one wire for each filament and it grounds itself. hence why I‘m not seeing 4 wires. Anyway the main problem I am having is I‘m not able to find any mechanical brake switches to rig up to it. I keep finding hydraulic ones which I can‘t use. Been to numerous shops and researched online to no avail. I don‘t mind modifying an aftermarket switch if need be, because finding stock parts seems impossible and expensive anyway. I‘m sure ill figure out how to wire it in when I get a switch that will work but if anyone could tell me how that would be great too.: excessive drive train vibrations maybe, i wonder if the transfer case is bad. maybe a broken transfer case mount, is it on the top, side, bottom?

Q:DOWNSHIFT AND BRAKE IS RIGHT OR BRAKE AND DOWNSHIFT IS RIGHT-----IN A MOTORCYCLE?: I do not use the engine to slow the bike. I use the brakes. I only use the transmission to keep the engine in the proper RPM range for what I am doing at the time. For one thing. It is easy to downshift while going too fast and lock the rear tire. You could easily lose control. You have a lot more control using the brakes alone to slow. Also. What is more expensive to repair? Overhauling the clutch and transmission. Or replacing a couple of brake pads. I would prefer to replace a couple of brake pads than overhaul a clutch or transmission.

Q:what will happen if i dont repair the warping disc?: The warped rotor is causing serious vibrations. These vibrations are resonating through out your vehicle including the rest of your brake parts Vibrations cause other parts to fracture and bolts and screws to come loose. So yes it could be serious and especially on a bike. Get it repaired before you hurt your self or cause an accident

Q:I am brand new to motorcycles and am teaching myself how to simply start and stop while i wait for my MSF class. I notice whenever i brake and come to a complete stop in first, the bike stalls. I then have to turn it back on, find neutral, and start it. Do i need to have the clutch pulled in when i stop? The bike works fine other than this, i get the feeling im probably not doing something right.: The clutch disengages the engine from the transmission (same for a car or truck)

Q:As far as i feel it is rear brakes which control stability If i am right please guide me further on this. If wrong please correct meThanks in Advance: Both brakes should be used together. The front system is more powerful since it goes 70% or more of the total braking. The rear can only handle about 30%. To get stable, safe braking requires using both brakes and practice . lots of practice . on different surfaces so you can get an idea of how much front brake to use in different situations. How well can it work when you get the skill learned? I had to stop a 72 Honda CB450 from 30 mph in less than 15 feet and I had a 155 pound passenger behind me when a car pulled out in front of me. We stopped inches from the car.

Q:I‘m stuck on this one question the answer‘s supposed to be 230m, but I can‘t get it. :SA motorcycle travelling at 100km/h on a flat road applies the brakes at 0.80m/s^2 for 1.0 min. How far did the motorcycle travel during this time?: The motorcycle is traveling at 27.77778 m/s. If he decelerates at 0.8 m/s^2, he will be stopped in 34.72 seconds. The rest of the minute he has his brakes applied while motionless. He travels 482.25 meters in that time. If we ignore the 0.80m/s^2, and figure him to stop in 60 seconds, he has traveled even further. Are the numbers right in the question? Edit: If the deceleration were active (some type of thruster), the position would be as follows: (being able to display a table would be nice) 00 9217.6 18370.4 27458.4 34482.04 34.72482.25 35482.22 36481.6 45440 60226.67 Applying brakes the negative acceleration would stop when the velocity reached 0.

Q:I was wonder what you guys think are the most important features to have on a motorcycle to ensure a safe ride. Everyone probably has slightly different opinions, but in general I want to know the most practical and essential elements.: Funny, everyone so far has talked about the rider, not the bike! I agree, the biggest factor for safety is the brain of the rider--his skill, his experience, his 'paranoia' (good word. I use it myself!) Real motorcycle riding is a series of split-second decisions. If you think about it long enough you wonder that it can even be done! But the bike itself, let's assume it's in good shape, brakes and clutch work well, all that, I'd say the most important thing was good tires. I got a motorcycle restored a few years ago, an old BMW 'airhead'. It had tires on it that were several years old and the surfaces were slightly dried and cracked. The mechanic told me the tires would still be good, just be careful. And being a cheap SOB I used them until they wore out. The bike scared me a few times by sliding sideways 2 or 3 inches in a turn. When the tires finally wore out and I replaced them, it made a HUGE difference. Brakes also make a big difference. This old bike was from the 70s and the brakes, although state of the art for that time, were really scandalously weak. I had new pads, resurfaced disk in front (drum in back), and the hydraulic system was fine, but I had to wonder 'Who would have bought this bike when it was new with brakes like this?' And the previous model had a drum brake in front too! OTOH fear of these brakes really made me a safer rider. 8^) These days, even in the car, I like to leave 3 sec. of distance behind the car in front.

Q:the brake and running lights dont wrk when the motorcycle is running, but when you turn the key to auxillary then they work how do i fix this problem, the front headlights work and the blinkers work but the back break lights and running lights dont work. if there is any one who has a diagram of the bike or anything will help! thanks!: 1(a). Check the operation of the brake switches at the front and rear brake controls. 1(b). Replace the rear tail/brake-light bulb. 2. The Ninja 500 does not have rear running lights. 3. If the rear turn-signals illuminate in the Aux' position then that means that they are part of the parking lights circuit. This doesn't mean that they should illuminate at any other time.

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