Auto Brake Pads for Nissan Bluebird /Pick up 41060-09W25

Auto Brake Pads for Nissan Bluebird /Pick up 41060-09W25 System 1

Auto Brake Pads for Nissan Bluebird /Pick up 41060-09W25

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:Toyota HIACE

Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Front

Width:145.4mm

Height:56.9mm

Thickness:15.5mm

Oe:04465-25040

Fmsi:D1344-8455

Wva:21468

Trw:Gdb3059

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements

Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request

Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China

HS Code:8708301000

Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month

Product Description

We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers!

You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service

Our Advantage

1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series.

2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands.

3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world.

4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products.

And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi.

5> We can produce as your samples.

6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads.

Detailed Specification

1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad

2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic

3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001

4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons

5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery

6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets

7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin

8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month

9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit

10. Payment terms: T/T

Auto Brake Pads for Nissan Bluebird /Pick up 41060-09W25

Q:I bough a used bike and after learning all the various necessary checks, realized that the dealer left the brake fluid at the low fill lines. I want to top up and got the recommended fluid for my Triumph Speedmaster (DOT 4). But I have no idea what brand is in there. I have to assume it is also the recommended DOT 4. Would it be safe to top up? Also, are you supposed to discard what‘s left in the bottle after a top-up?: Uncle Jed is the person! They're as he stated, obviously! Other formulations is not going to play first-rate with Dot 3-four do not use them!! Remember Brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it sucks up moisture from the atmosphere like a sponge. Exchange your fluid as a minimum once a year at the of using season. On no account use fluid from an open can. Keep away from chlorine!! All Hail Uncle Jed with a thumbs up!!

Q:So I just took an MSF in California and I LOVED it. Anyways, a big thing my coaches stressed is NEVER braking a turn. Always get the bike upright then brake. They did a pretty good job of explaining why that is to me, but I just don't think it's always possible. I mean, I always find myself braking in a turn in my car, great example: Getting off the freeway, you approach that big swooping off ramp and although you're able to maintain speed (40mph) exiting, there is some congestion on the off ramp and you're going to have to slow down... how do you do it? I know the emergency procedure for that situation, but realistically the bike isn't going to stop in time, or I will end up stopped in the middle of the road... is this just an issue of my immaturity on a bike?: You are correct, every time you ride you will encounter some new situation. But the advice from the instructors is one to heed. If you over-brake in a corner you will be in trouble! Janice gave some good reasons and advice, as many did. Do not ride with the tip of your nose, ride with your eyes. 2-10 seconds is the minimum safe riding area you should be scanning constantly. Turns have blind areas, plus, obstacles: sand, gravel, metal, ect. These are some of the main reasons that you are told not to brake in corners. No matter how long or how skilled a rider is traction can be taken away at any moment, by a number of causes. It may take time to stand up your bike, but it will be able to stop faster(bigger tire footprint means more stopping power!) I took the MSF course after I had been riding for a time and I did it to save money on my insurance, but I have found traveling these ribbons of asphalt that the techniques and information passed along at these classes is time proven. Take everything they told you and apply it and you will probably ride for years without sudden impact, which is a very good thing indeed, Ride Safe and God Bless You-bty it will take sometime to understand motorcycles, but never stop respecting them!

Q:I‘ve been doing a little research while preparing to get my CA motorcycle license and I‘ve come across many forums with posters advocating draggin the rear brake while feathering the throttle in order to pass the test going around the circle. Does anyone have an idea -based on motorcycle theory- why that would help? I‘m scheduled to take the motorcycle safety course next week, and if I pass I‘ll never have to do the DMV‘s lollipop test, but I‘m still curious what it is about dragging that back break that would make a difference on a rider‘s ability to keep the front wheel inside the lines in the circle. And ideas?: I have not taken this test, but I gather it is a slow speed (just about walking pace) manoeuvring test, which I have done. When you are trying to keep a bike in a straight line at walking pace you are hovering between stalling and slowing so much you put your foot down (I assume that would be a failure) and going too fast to perform the required actions. The smaller and lighter a bike is the easier this would be to do. You can do this by juggling throttle and clutch – but this takes experience and is not a skill that a novice will have to hand, as is applying the front brake while keeping a constant throttle. So the rear brake is used to modulate the speed while the clutch and throttle is kept almost constant – it separates the controls to three limbs. I would expect the biggest failure rate to be caused by riders looking at the route a few inches in front of the wheel – but that is too late at a slow speed, any compensation could put you out of the route or put your foot down, you have to look further ahead, turn your head to look where you want to go. btw google moto gymkhana if you want to see some amazing skills for tight “slow” turns.

Q:Leaving my motorcycle outside?: Nike Bauer One95, PM9 blade pattern(Malkin's) Malkin's blade is the best pattern for stickhandling, and good for shooting. It's super light as well. Can't go wrong.

Q:I need to know if when you buy new motorcycle brake pads do they come with the heat insulator and brace that holds it all together come with the new brake pads of do I have to buy them separate?: Autism, cancer, obesity

Q:In terms of motorcycles, what is bhp? And what part of the bike does it measure ?: brake horse power is the amount of energy an engine can extract from its fuel during a set amount of time. not to be confused with torque, the actual turning force the engine can make. the graphs of both are related, but max torque and where it is delivered in RPM is more important

Q:ABS motorcycle braking vs. Traction Control Braking?: I don't think you'll find a product that will guarantee you NO FLATS however I do some cycling myself and someone recommended to me to use an old tube cut it down the centre and use that as an additional barrier in your tyre and new tube, perhaps you should try that. In addition be careful of your tyre pressure and ensure you have checked both the wheel and tyre for any objects that may be causing the puncture, the smallest piece of thorn, wire, glass etc will damage your tube causing a puncture. good luck

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