• Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5057 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5057 System 2
Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5057

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5057

Ref Price:
$3.90 - 4.00 / m² get latest price
Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5057 is one of the most popular color in the present market. Due to its simple design, this model has been exported to many countries in Middle East and Africa, and is also widely used in China domestic market. It could be used for both interior floor and wall.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Soluble Salt

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 500x500mm, 7pcs/Ctn, 890 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1512m2/20’Fcl

 

 

Production Line & Package 

 

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5057

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5057

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt 500 Serie CMAX5057

 

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 60*60 available?

—— Yes, the size 60*60 with many models is available. For some models, the 80*80 is also available.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1512 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

 

Q:how to tile vanity top and back splash?
Yes, You should use a backer board or cement board. It makes the best base so your tiles will not pop loose. When cutting backer board wear a dust mask as it is hazardous to your lungs, but use the backer board if you want the job done right. Be sure to fill in any seams with grout where you may have had to piece your board before tiling too.
Q:This tile in my kitchen became loose a while ago and today I decided to try to fix it but not sure what to do. As you can see from the image link, a fair amount of concrete has come off with the tile. I suppose I can‘t re-use this tile. I have a spare one available. What I need to know is what product do I use to fill in the hole? Should I try to get out all the old concrete stuff first?
Sockies, this is actually an easy repair. The first responder suggested liquid nails. Don't even consider that. If you have a matching tile available, use that in lieu of trying to clean off the tile. First off, it looks like the tile came loose based the non-continuous thinset on the bottom of the tile. If that is the case (which is probably the cause), you want to fill in under the tile with thinset, so the entire area where the tile sets is filled solid from the sub-floor to approx. 1/8 below the bottom of the surrounding tiles. You should remove the existing thinset where the tile will set. You can do this with a brick or masonry chisel. If a little remains at the perimeter, that will be fine. Trying to remove all of it flush with the surrounding tiles may result in loosening additional tiles. You don't want that. Allow about 5-6 hours for that to set (harden) enough to set the tile. You don't make it flush because you will spread additional thinset on the underside of the tile to set it. Use a 3/8 notched trowel to spread the thinset on the entire surface of the bottom of the tile. Place the tile keeping an even spacing from the tile to the surrounding tiles You want the grout joints to be the same size all around. Press down over the entire surface of the tile to ensure it embeds completely and is flush with the surrounding tiles. Allow it to set overnight and remove any thinset that will impede the grout from obtaining 1/4 depth. It's not necessary to make the grout the full depth of the tile. It's imperative to remove any loose grout prior to grouting. That's it. I suggest buying thinset that comes in the bag that you mix with water. Don't make it too soupy when you mix it. The thinset and grout need to (what's called) slake during the mixing process. It simply means you mix it, allow it to set 5 minutes and remix it, and it's ready to use. The bag will have those instructions on the back.
Q:how many tiles will it take
102(12) AND 18!12) 1224 AND 216 DIVIDE BY 28 43.7 AND 7.7 SO YOU NEED 44 ALONG ONE SIDE AND 8 ALONG THE OTHER. TO FIND TOTAL, MULTIPLY THESE TOGETHER 352
Q:The hammer took a chip out of one tile, the chip is about the size of a pencil eraser. I‘m just heartbroken as we just had this tile installed 12 days ago! Is there any way to fix this- short of replacing the tile? I‘ve already bought a rug that will cover the hole but I‘d still like to fix it if I can. Just in case we ever would like to go without a rug. Thank you!!!
You should have kept a few spare tiles in case something happens like this, No big deal to replace a tile, scratch out the grout and chisel up the old tile, replace with a new one and re grout.
Q:I have asbestos tiles in my basement (of a home I recently purchased). I sent them off to a lab for testing. The lab results came back 4% asbestos. I definitely want to remove the tiles. The majority of the tiles are in good shape. Some of the corners on a few of them are cracking. Right now I am considering the DIY vs. hiring the pros for removalI have been given conflicting advise thus far. Some say do it yourself, there is a very low percentage of asbestos in your tiles -- 4%. Others say Don‘t risk it, pay for the peace of mind. Here are my questions: Is 4% a low percentage for asbestos tiles? Is this low enough to be trivial or of lessor concern when taking on DIY removal? The pros quoted me $1300 for removal and an additional $275 for an air quality test/certification. Is this a fair price for about 500 square feet of tiles? Is air quality testing really necessary given the low percentage of asbestos in my tiles? Or, are they just making money off the fear and hysteria around asbestos?
Asbestos in tile form is stable, until you start messing with it. When you try to remove it, you will inevitably crack some. This will release the fibers. Just to give you some perspective, it only takes ONE fiber to cause mesothelioma or asbestosis. You can take the chance, but then what are you going to do with the tile? There are very specific EPA regulations concerning the disposal of asbestos. You can't just throw it in the trash. If you get caught, you will be fined a lot more than the contractor is charging you. If it were me, I'd pay the contractor. The certification will help if and when you ever sell your house. Good luck.
Q:about a year ago i had tile installed on my home but winter is here and i was wondering if i could get carpet installed over the tile without getting the tile damage
I would recommend just using throw or area rugs over the tile. To lay carpet you must tack the padding to the floor then stretch and staple the the edges of the carpet along the floor boards at the walls. The end results would be tack holes in the tile and after time (walking on the carpeting) the padding will stick to the tiles below and would have to be scraped off if removed causing damage to the tiles.
Q:Cleaning tiles is a lot of work because they attract mildew, soap scum, etc. Now that the cleaning and scrubbing is done, what‘s next? What‘s an easy and environment-friendly way to maintain tiles? Also, if you have a suggestion for keeping a bathtub clean, that would be appreciated as well. Thanks!
Always wipe off excess water after you bathe or shower. You can use a wash cloth and wipe off the water from the tiles. Buy a spray bottle and fill 90% water, 10% vinegar. Spray all the tiles in the shower/bath area with the water/vinegar once a week and let dry. The vinegar will not harm the grout or tiles and will eliminate mildew from growing. Bleach would be good for cleaning the tub but its not environmentally friendly. Try water/vinegar and steel wool to get the stains out. Then once a week water/vinegar and wipe clean.
Q:What supplies would you need to install Ceramic Tile to a kitchen floor.
Tile adhesive Tile grout Nothced adhesive trowel Grout float Tile snips Wet saw
Q:We recently renovated and trying to save money, we did the tile ourselves after some research. We used thinset, then backerboard, screwed the backer-board down (extra screws in high traffic areas) then thinsetted the tiles down according to instructions using a 1 inch trowel and grouted. Most of the rooms are fine (for now) but here‘s the problem:Through the main pathway, we started hearing what sounded like a sandy noise. Not good as the thinset is sandy. Today, I‘ve noticed that the grout along a few of the tiles is beginning to crack meaning the tiles must be flexing. The tiles are discontinued, have brand new cabinets on top of them and won‘t be easy to take out and replace.What should I do? Would putting large rugs over it help, with the intention of cushioning the footsteps?
A couple possibilities, the use of such a large trowel wasn t needed. The thin set may not have been set up before foot traffic was on it,and the bond was broken, leading to loose tiles and thus grout cracking. The thinset may have been to thick or thin leading to not bonding or poor bonding. The grout may have been to watery and thus weak from to much water or to much water was used in washing the tile when grouting. What are you wanting to do? Repair the tiles?Regrout? To find out if the tiles are loose, get down and rap your knuckles on the tile with the cracked grout and then off to the side in a less used area. If the tiles you suspect are loose, there will be a hollow sound especially along the edge of the tile.It should sound firm on the other area. You don t need a handy man for this. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:like on the tiles of the floor
tricky matter check out with the search engines just that may help

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