aluminum foil with LDPE for bubble foil insulation production

aluminum foil with LDPE for bubble foil insulation production System 1

aluminum foil with LDPE for bubble foil insulation production System 2

aluminum foil with LDPE for bubble foil insulation production

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 90 cm²

Supply Capability:: 33412 cm²/month

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Aluminum foil facing insulation for Roofing Insulation

1. Aluminum Foil Facing Description：

The production technologies and products performance of aluminum foil facing have been up to international advanced level. The aluminum foil facing products are mainly used for HVAC system, refrigerators, building thermal aluminum foil facing insulation and laminated with glass wool and rock wool to increase the insulation function.

• FSK aluminum foil facing is mainly used for duct wrap in HVAC system and other fields, such as vapor barrier etc., and suitable for off-line lamination of glass wool or rock wool. By special processing, the facing will have excellent flame retardant property.

• Heat-sealing aluminum foil facing is used for duct wrap without applying extra adhesive and suitable for online lamination of glass wool and rock wool.

2.Main Features of the Aluminum foil facing：

• Light weight

• High manufacturing accuracy

• High strength

• Small inertia resistance

• Strong heat dissipation ability

• Good visual effect

• High reflective insulation

• Heat resistant, water proof, stable at high temperature;

• environmentally friendly,no smell and not-toxic;

• Smooth and clear surface;

3.Aluminum Foil Facing Images

aluminum foil with LDPE for bubble foil insulation production

4.Aluminum Foil Facing Specification

TYPICAL PHYSICAL PROPERTIES:

Basic weight	gsm	120	ASTM D646
Tensile strength: M. D. X. D.	N/25mm	140 75	ASTM D828
Burst strength	N	43	ASTM D774
Reflectivity of foil surface	%	95	----------
Temp. Resistance	-29°C 66°C	No Delamination No Delamination	ASTM C1263
Water vapor permeance	ng/N.s	1.15	ASTM E-96
Basic weight	gsm	120	ASTM D646
Tensile strength: M. D. X. D.	N/25mm	140 75	ASTM D828

Width: 1.0m, 1.2m, 1.25 m, 1.30, 1.37m

Length: 200m, 500m, 1000m, 2500m, 2750m, 3300m

Core I.D.: 3"(76mm ±1), 72mm ±1

Based on order, special sizes are also available.

5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：

1. How about your company?

A world class manufacturer & supplier of aluminum foil facing and is one of the large-scale professional investment aluminum foil facing bases in China. Annually more than 1000 containers of aluminum foil facing are exported to markets in Europe, America and Japan.

What is the storage condition?

1,The products should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.

2, It is essential, as with all pressure-sensitive tapes, that the surface to which the tape is applied must be clean, dry, and free of grease and oil.

3, The user should take test and do trial-application on the above products before coming into application so as to witness and ensure suitability for user’s special purpose and technique.

3. How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test；We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

4. How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within four working days, we will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The specific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 7 to 10 working days can be served.

Q:I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.: Good question and I do not know the answers. For the fire issue, call your local fire department and chat them up. Then call your building inspector and talk with him. If he's been around awhile he may have seen it done before and have some information on how it has worked out or what are must do's.

Q:I've found lots of building forums and general &quot;building advice&quot; columns that go over very high-level pros/cons to choosing roofing material and insulation options, but I want a site where I can see hard costs of ordering each of the materials so I don't have to call up a ton of contractors or dealers. Does such a comparison site exist? Everyone offers quotes, but that takes too much time to apply for quotes to every dealer.I'm specifically interested in knowing what green options I can afford (cotton batting vs. formaldehyde-free fiberglass, etc.).: i could propose the felt. I rather have heard the two execs and cons with regard to the extra moderen man made underlay, and that i'm no longer inspired. I consistently get rid of the previous roofing, positioned #30 felt down, positioned a 1x4 batten down, and positioned my steel on that. I additionally want the three' huge roofing

Q:Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.: The foamboard can be installed in between the beams Do NOT use adhesives to fasten the foamboards or drywall. The adhesive will deteriorate over time and the foamboards and drywall will fall down. Many municipalities do not allow materials to be attached only by adhesives especially on walls and ceilings. Nail or screw 1 X 3 or 1 X 4 boards under the foamboard from beam to beam spaced about 16 inches apart. Screw drywall for fireproofing to the 1 X 3s or 4s and this will also hide the foam boards. Tape and seal the joints

Q:roof was replaced eight years ago soon after there were leaks in the roof caused insulation toget wet then dry now the insulation is packed hard and has started to turn into power who would be responsible to replace the insulation.: House Owner, Land Lord. If you are the house owner, contact the people who did the work on your roof, find out what your warranty is.

Q:do i have to have insulation in my roof?: There is a need for insulation in order to avoid very cold nights in the winter and too hot days in the summer. For this purpose, an attic radiant barrier will provide an instant solution to reducing both high summer and winter cooling and heating costs. During winter, heat loss is so rapid that it is often passing through the attic insulation then towards the cooler part of the roof. However, an attic radiant barrier will help reduce the heat loss and in the end save you lots of money and discomfort.

Q:If I insulate my roof, should I put in those plastic vents that go between the studs for air flow? I would like to use it for a work shop and probibly have some kind of heat source. i live in Northern Alberta.....: Rabbits do not choose supplemental warmth whilst in a development. Rabbits are lots greater beneficial appropriate to handle chilly climate than they are to handle warm climate. warmth lamps won't purely reason a hearth probability, they'll purely approximately insure that the animals gets pneumonia. make beneficial they have extremely some nutrition, a BOWL of heat water three times an afternoon (do not use water bottles in the iciness), and field complete of hay/straw to burrow into, and that they would be high quality.

Q:So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..: I own an 80 year old house -- a home originally built as temporary housing for people working in the airplane industry during the war, and for returning soldiers. Temporary housing that is better structurally than many new homes. In fact, the original design and work was brilliant in its simplicity and precision, and I have found that the problems with my house are the result of work done later on -- additions and fix ups that screwed with the original integrity. One thing I have learned RE old houses is it is often best to leave well enough alone. This does not mean one should not address definite problem, or add certain features, but it does mean one has to think things through and do a great deal of research before acting. As you say, the structure of the roof is the original, so all the folks who had the house before you must have been doing something right. If I were you, I would ask around my community, do some internet searches, and find someone in your area who is an expert on dealing with historical structures of the area. This person will not necessarily be a master craftsman with a PhD in history and another in architecture. It may actually be a skilled handyman or carpenter who is continuing the old family business. He also probably lives in an old farm house, or knows plenty of folks who do. THAT is the guy you want to consult.

Q:Foam and the new building technolodgy's are coming to New Orleans. The rebuilding is causing New Orleans to be the &quot;Greenest City in America&quot;. Energy Efficiency and the proper buiilding techniques tak hold.: And the question is??

Q:I have a valley between two roof peaks that gets a huge icicle every year. I know this area is not insulated very well. In the house it is a dead area between two rooms. I would like to get someone over here and blow it full of insulation (couple calls in, awaiting response). In the meantime, I do have heat tapes installed on the roof in this area. It's a 50' run, zigzagged and some goes into gutter and the downspout.I am paranoid of fire hazards and have a real problem leaving these tapes plugged in. That being said, I realize snow is all around and water is flowing in this case. Is it safe to leave these plugged in?Is there a time I should be unplugging?Will this help my icicle problem?Serious replies only please. I prefer from a licensed contractor/insulator.Thanks in advance.: James M has a good answer- Your problems (as mine) are found in the attic - or below the roof surface. If the roof is warmed from within the house, the snow will melt daily and re-freeze at night. Your task is to keep the roof COLD by insulating the eaves from warm air. Also the attic space. The attic air should rise to a vent in gables or along the roof ridge... then exit. The interior temperature should be chilly at all times with snow on the roof- 40degF or below. In my case (maybe yours?), the warmth comes from the Top of the exterior walls - the top plate is very near the roof- and heat from the living space travels upward inside the wall to this support... a LINE of snow melt is visible where the wall meets the roof. I need to reinsulate the entire exterior to get control of roof snow melt... or visit the roof with a snow rake after heavy snow.

Q:the roof of my mouth hurts bad.i worked all day with sawdust and insulation yesterday.is this the problem.?: Sawdust is a definite possibility. It is highly toxic and an appropriate mask should always be worn when sawdust is present. Sawdust is a proven carcinogen. Depending on the type of insulation you used, it may contain chemicals (e.g. formaldehyde) or particulates (fiberglass) that can be irritating to the throat, lungs and/or nasal sinuses. Bottom line: be sure to wear an appropriate mask in the future. They are available at most hardware and all wookworking stores. Best wishes and good luck.

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