Aluminum Foil Bubble Composite Insulation FEBEF

Aluminum Foil Bubble Composite Insulation FEBEF System 1

Aluminum Foil Bubble Composite Insulation FEBEF

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

Min Order Qty:: 10000 m²

Supply Capability:: 1000000 m²/month

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Aluminum Foil Bubble Heat Insulation

Description of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

Aluminum foil and bubble is the better product in the environmental protection, thermal insulation thermal insulation. The outermost PET has good abrasion resistance and high strength tear resistance. The bubble between the aluminum foil not only has a strong moisture, resistance oxygen, sound insulation, drop noise function, aluminum foil bubble also has very good reflective inverse heat, blocking ultraviolet.

Features of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

It is the high quality heat insulating and the invincible opponent of anti- condensation. The low and stable coefficient of heat conduction has good isolation effect.

The product has many advantages, such as light weight, heat insulation, shock absorption, sound absorption and noise reduction;

The product is easy to install and process and it also waterproof, seepage control, flame retardant.

The product also has many features, such as heat resistance, low temperature resistance, chemical resistance, ageing resistance etc.

Application of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

Building reflective heat, cold and hot water pipe insulation;

Refrigerator partition, central air conditioning, refrigerator and household appliances insulation;

Insulation, sound-absorbing, noise reduction and moisture-proof insulation in the car, train, refrigerator car, laboratory and other industries;

Special product packaging and refrigerated packing and so on.

Pictures of Aluminum Foil Bubble

Aluminum Foil Bubble Composite Insulation FEBEF

Specification of Aluminum Foil Bubble

STRUCTURE	ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL	ALUMINUM FOIL/ BUBBLE/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL	ALUMINUM FOIL/WOVEN CLOTH/BUBBLE/WOVEN CLOTH/ALUMINUM FOIL	MPET /BUBBLE/MPET	ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/FOAM/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL
THICKNESS	1-4mm	8mm	6.5mm	4mm	4mm
WEIGHT	120GSM	240GSM	180GSM	120GSM	445GSM
BUBBLE SIZE	4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER	2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER	4mm HIGH x 20mm DIAMETER	4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER	2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER FOAM THICKNESS: 3.5MM
WIDTH	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)
THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY	0.034w/mo	0.032 w/mo	0.032w/mo	0.034w/mo	5.87m2.k/w
REFLECTIVITY	96-97%	96-97%	96-97%	96-97%	96-97%

FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely:

①How about your company?

A world class manufacturer & supplier of aluminum foil bubble insulation，is one of the large-scale professional investment aluminum foil composite insulation bases in China, consisting of both casting foundry forging and machining factory. Annually more than 100,000 square meters foil insulation are exported to markets in Europe, America and Japan. OEM service available according to customer’s requirements.

②How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test; We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The specific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 20 to 25 working days can be served.

④What is the storage condition?

The welded wire mesh should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.

Q:Would it be worth forwarding the offer to the client? Is the difference that substantial?: You don't want that. If he offers 3.5 instead of the required 3, that is a different story. Otherwise he should give you more material thickness to provide an equivalent R of 3. Yes, the difference can be substantial and I wouldn't forward it to the client. The smaller the R value of the entire roof sandwich the larger the difference it makes. Like the change from 5 mpg to 4 mpg is a 25% worsening in fuel economy, but a change from 100 mpg to 99 mpg is 1%. It will mess up the heating/cooling of the building and the mechanical systems might be inadequate. They could save money on the roof and complain how the building is too hot/too cold or the mechanical systems never shut off and their energy bills are too high.

Q:I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.: The sip panels are vented depending on what thickness over all that you want. The last ones I used had 4 inches of rigid foam board then on top of that had 3" strips every 16" an inch thick which created an airspace. On top was 5/8 Osb. To create an affective air flow the fascia cannot plane through with the plywood at the bottom but fall just short of the 1" space. To cap it a oversized vented drip edge is used. You must also have a ridge vent for proper flow. These panels can near 100$. You can do it your own way like I do when building log cabins by laying 2" foam down first then lay 2x4 16 on center on top then finally your plywood. If you use CDX instead of Osb it will outlast it by 100%. Rigid foam insulation is not like batt-faced. Rfboard ins. Is used in boat hulls and even after being submerged for long periods of time will return to its original density and r-value. For obvious reasons batt ins. Will not. You won't have a moisture problem as long as you don't have a venting problem. If you are using high hat lighting don't let the cans touch your rigid ins. Tuck batt in softly around them TAKE THE PAPER OFF! By code if you have an interior wall 10or more ft. It must have a fireblock, simply a 2x4 turned flat between the studs. On your roof the ceiling you see inside, (most likely 7/8 tongue and groove boards) passes as the same. Good luck!

Q:I have an apartment building that has mold in it. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the airflow. Sure, the tenants might have to spend a mint on heat, but if it improved the air quality, maybe it would be a good idea.: Don't remove the insulation, unless it has mold in it too. Locate the source(s) of your mold problem inside your building... a high rate of interior bulk moisture, and eliminate that. Then make sure the bathrooms have exhaust fans that are wired-in with the light switch (so whenever someone turns the light on, the fan comes on too), and that the fans are vented out of your attic (otherwise you'll have mold inside your attic). Also, make sure the kitchen exhaust fans vent outside (and the clothes dryers too).

Q:I have 4 pieces (about 50 sq ft) of odd shaped polystyrene foam insulation between 3&quot; and 4&quot; thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof. creative ideas anyone?: I'm a bit confused here Andy. If the flat roof needs replacing, when it is removed what is revealed is going to be exactly what you would see if you removed the ceilings. So why consider removing the ceilings if they are ok? When the flat roof is replaced put the insulation in then. Whilst rockwool would have been the material to use there is now roofing insulation board that is much more efficient, 50mm board gives equivalent insulation of something like 150mm rockwool. If the flatroof isn't fitted with suitable vents to keep it ventilated fit them when the roof is done too. The only reason I can see for replacing the ceiling plasterboard is if it hasn't got a vapor barrier ie foil backed board.

Q:i mean, what do you use to make it stay put? glue? nails?: Steel spreaders may be cheapest (as described in other answer) but many roofs have shingle nails sticking out,a couple dabs of caulking,glue,you're done! Be sure anything you use is compatible with your foam,some will just MELT it. Good Luck! DrJ

Q:Our roof tile is installed on top of galvanized iron sheets. We do not have any toher form of insulation. The roof tile or tegula is quite thick.: Absolutely. You will find in the summer that your tiles will heat up from the sun and will stay hot even after dark (the steel sheets don't exactly help either). Your energy bills will go down about 60% in the summer and 20% in the winter by just installing a cheap fiberglass filling. A good example of how these tiles are effecting you house would be a stoneware cup. Pour hot water into it and place it in the microwave until it boils. Feel that the side are very hot, too hot to hold (this represents the sun heating up the tiles). Now pour out that cup and fill it with cold water (which would represent AC in your home). In about 2 or three minutes, place your finger in the stoneware cup. The water will be warm. The tiles do the same thing. The absorb and distribute heat into your home during the warm months, and will rob your home of it's heat during the winter and cool months. Just by placing insulation in your home, you stop that unwanted heat exchange with your home and the outside world.

Q:Should a two story home have insulation under the roof in the big closets ?: yea. it might cost you some to put it in but it will save you a lot in the future with heating and air conditioning bills

Q:How do I find roofers who are specialised in protection against invaders from outer space. I called 10 and they said they would call me back, but no one did so far. It must be really complicated.: Make a hat out of tin foil like some of the people in the mental hospital do. No roofer in his right mind would go near your house if you tell him this outlandish story you claim to be circulating about space invaders. Mentally unstable people tend to scare normal folks away in droves, see a therapist or get a new joke writer because I'm not buying it either.

Q:My home is shaped like a square box. The four corners of the upper level have the roof pitch from the gables protruding into the rooms. The attic has no insulation and I need to insulate it. There is access from the attic to look down into the wall/ceiling that protrudes into the room. I can insulate the attic myself but the surface area of these protrusions is rather large. What would be the best way to get insulation down in there? Shoot the insulation in and poke it with a stick to make sure there is good coverage down in the wall space? The opening is about 6 inches high.Thanks.: You need to have an air space between the roof and your insulation to prevent moisture build up on the inside and ice damming on the exterior. So you want to insulate the ceiling of the room, not the roof. For the angled protruding parts they make inserts that go between the joists to give 1-2" of air space under the roof and you can put insulation under that against the wall of the room. Remember that it's trapped air that insulates so don't overstuff when you push it in there. It sounds like you don't have access behind the vertical walls. You may need to break through the plaster between the studs to get in there and put insulation on the wall of the room and on top of the ceiling below. Then get some sheetrock and spackle to repair the hole you had to make, or you can make an insulated removable panel and use that area for storage. But don't store anything in there that can't take heat/cold.

Q:I live in the top most floor of a flat. Is it worth to insulate the roof (from inside) with styrofoam(thermocole) to reduce the airconditioning load. Is it really economical with respect to cost of insulation and savings gained? Any experiences?: You want to insulate at the ceiling joist level, not at the roof-rafter level and provide ventilation for the remaining cavity. You also want to make sure you have the correct vapor barrier. But you do not want to insulate directly below and contacting the roof deck. One of the difficulties with rigid insulation is making it fit correctly and without gaps. So be careful of that. You may have to supplement the rigid sheets with foam spray at the gaps, around wires and pipes and so forth.

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