Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 25

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Bubble Insulation Benefits:

Reflects 96% of radiant heat
Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic
Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install
Durable and lightweight
Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate
Vapor and radon retarder
Easy to cut and install
Permanent and maintenance-free
Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents
Does not support the growth of mold or mildew
Not affected by moisture or humidity
Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

Material Structure: AL/Bubble/AL
Bubble Size:D10mmH 4mm(102.5/104/106/207/2510)choose the bubble size
Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )
Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)
PROPERTIES	TEST DATA	UNIT
Thickness	3.5-4	mm
Weight	250	g/m2
Emissivity	0.03-0.04	COEF
Thermal conductivity	0.034	w/m0
Apparent Density	85	kg/m3
Reflectivity	95-96	%
Water Vapour Transmission	0.013	g/m2kpa
Corrosion	doesn't generate
Tensile Strength(MD)	16.98	Mpa
Tensile Strength(TD)	16.5	Mpa

Q:Rather than waste that heat on sunny days during the heating season, can it be used to help heat the home? Otherwise it would just passively be vented out. Has anyone done this? Is it a good idea or not?: Not very practical. You would, in essence, draw the heat out of the space (rooms) below. Insulation in your attic does allow some heat to pass through.

Q:How much insulation is required in a house roof in new York ?: 323 square feet per cubic mile.

Q:Tax Question: Itemized receipt for roofing and insulation?: The insulation is a tax deduction. Call the contractor and ask for an itemized reciept for tax purposes.

Q:roof was replaced eight years ago soon after there were leaks in the roof caused insulation toget wet then dry now the insulation is packed hard and has started to turn into power who would be responsible to replace the insulation.: Only you. 8 years is long past any roofer's warranty

Q:My new room is an addition to a mobile home, and has a single-layer metal roof. I have 3 &quot;main&quot; concerns. What are the cheapest and/or most effective ways of eliminating them?1. No heat insulation- cold air sinks from the roof to my room, and my warm air rises to the roof and cools.2. Condensation forms on the inside and drips occasionally. My computer, bike, and downhill boards are in here!3. It seems like bugs could easily get into my room, but that's just a suspicion.: You really need a correct "building paper" under the iron. It is aluminum with a tar sandwiched between...You can also use plastic sheeting as a vapor barrier..

Q:I work with rubber roofing insulation. How , other than long sleeves, do I deal with the after effects of being exposed to this insulation.: The talcum powder and clothing can only do so much. They can be effective, but can still lead to some itching once you are done working on the job. A cold (then warm) shower should be sufficient for clearing out the insulation and taking care of the itching.

Q:... building code max. (R-50)???: Anytime snow melts from a roof due to lost heat from the interior, or sun shining on the roof, but air is below freezing, icecycles will form. The real danger here is ice cycles that can fall when thawing and kill in extreme cases, AND ice dams can form forcing ice back up under shingles damaging roof. That is why it is often a good idea to install heat tape under the edge of roofs in areas that are prone to heavy freezes and snow.

Q:i have roof insulation but if i add more to the required depth the bottom layer will get compressed. Will it still insulate?: Compressed insulation is LESS effective than uncompressed insulation. It will still insulate more than not having it. If you are adding enough to actually compress the bottom layer, you have probably passed the point where additional insulation actually helps.

Q:I have a valley between two roof peaks that gets a huge icicle every year. I know this area is not insulated very well. In the house it is a dead area between two rooms. I would like to get someone over here and blow it full of insulation (couple calls in, awaiting response). In the meantime, I do have heat tapes installed on the roof in this area. It's a 50' run, zigzagged and some goes into gutter and the downspout.I am paranoid of fire hazards and have a real problem leaving these tapes plugged in. That being said, I realize snow is all around and water is flowing in this case. Is it safe to leave these plugged in?Is there a time I should be unplugging?Will this help my icicle problem?Serious replies only please. I prefer from a licensed contractor/insulator.Thanks in advance.: They are not a substantial fire hazard. They are far more likely to just stop working than to get overheated.

Q:Hi, my building is hot in temperature in summers, so I am finding ways to tackle the problem by placing some heat insulating materials against the sunlight on the roof of my building. I have found several possible solutions, but none of them close to perfect. 1. grass layer: hard to maintain2. heat-insulating brick: might be too heavy to carry them to the roof3. heat-insulating coating: would it be damaged if we step on them? Are there things like heat-insulating carpets that would be convenient to instal?: If you're redoing the roof, a radiant barrier under the sheathing helps. So does insulation. And also, if there is an attic space there, consider putting in a fan to blow the hot air out.

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