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FAQ
- On those tiles, can you skate on them with ice skates. I was thinking about getting them but I wasn‘t sure. Last but not least, is there a different kind of tiles that are cheaper. Thanks!
- I think I understand your question, the tiles you can't skate on unless you have roller hockey skates, it's called sport court. I play roller hockey and ice and the tiles for roller SUCK! If I were you I'd just go fin a certain kind of paint I can't recall the name of the brand, but paint the garrage floor with it and you can skate in there and stick handle if you have enough room. Hope this helps
- A 15 foot by 18 foot porch floor is to be completely coverede with 1-foot square tiles. White tiles are to cover the center of the floor and green tiles are to form a 2-foot wide border around the white tiles. How many green tiles and how many white tiles will be needed?/. help plz. can you show work thanks very much.
- The total number of square foot tiles you will need is 15 * 18, or 270 tiles. That is also the area within the rectangle of the room. Now the green tiles denote the perimeter of the square with certain allowances for corners and the fact that the perimeter you are talking about is 2 tiles wide. The outermost perimeter (green tiles) is 18 by 15 feet and is calculated by (2 * L) + (2 * W) -4. or (2 * 18) + (2 * 15) -4. Simplifying it brings it to (36) + (30) -4, or 62. You are probably wondering about the -4. That is because each corner is counted twice (once for length and again for width) and you need to compensate for the duplication. Now for the inner perimeter. The size of the inner perimeter is reduced by 2 feet or 2 tiles since the rectangle is smaller, so the dimensions are now 16 by 13 feet. The formula is the same, (2 * L) + (2 * W) -4 but with the new numbers. (2 * 16) + (2 * 13) -4 Simplifying (32) + (26) -4 = 54 Adding the two perimeters together, 62 + 54 = 116 Green tiles. Subtract that from the total tiles used, 270 - 160 = 154 White tiles. Now try that with 9 inch tiles. z
- is there another way to cut tiles ?i dont have a tile cutter , thanks
- Your best bet then is to do the measurements yourself and go to a store (even homedepo or Lowes) and have them cut it. They will most likely cut it with some type of wet saw, keeps the edges from chipping.
- I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
- Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.
- I need help with my white tile grout. Nothing I do keeps/gets it clean. Any tips for an easy fix to dirty grout, or does anyone know if it‘s possible to add color to grout after it‘s been set?
- My Daughter colored my grout lines with crayon I used a acid type grout cleaner got it from the local home center in the tile and grout section. also get a tile grout sealer right after its clean.
- Can I also use thin set to grout my tiles on counter? I‘m using white glazed ceramic tiles 4x4. If not what should I use? Please help
- As far as using the thin-set for the grout, that's not what it's meant for. While I have seen and heard of it being done, I don't see why you would since it just comes in the bland white/gray. They do make pre-mixed Mastic/Grout combo buckets, but again...they only come in the plain colors. You can use those if you really want to go that route, but the Thinset is a better bond. Invest in a nice modified type grout and you can get it in the right color, and have it turn out just right :D