flexible ducts INFU FKAB insulation mylar
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 234 g/m
- Supply Capability:
- 234 g/m/month
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Product Material
10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire
Product Feature
8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:
1.Size. (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color. (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission. transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance. performance can’t be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept
Product Advantages
8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:
1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed
- Q:How do I adequately insulate my attic roof to make the space a bit more habitable in the winter? The floors to the living area below are already insulated and we have a gable mounted fan which is great in the summer. I am thinking of adding insulation to the roof with baffles underneath for air circulation through the soffit vents. Am I anywhere near an idea that may work?
- Such an interesting question when you sit down to answer it. First off, if there are any vents to the exterior, its not likely that you will want any additional heat to enter the space, as it will flow out of the vents to the outside and cost far more money than heat that is lost by thermal transfer, through the doors, windows and insulated walls and ceilings. So, any increase in the source of heat would mean closing the system to outside air vents like the fan and the soffit vents. If you want to heat the space, you'll need to insulate the roof by adding fiberglass batting to the space between the rafters and then drywall or panel depending on local building code and your preferences. Then you'll need an avenue for heat to reach the attic which can be as simple as cutting a couple of floor grates through to the heated space below, but you'll want cold air return ducting to send the cold air that is displaced by the heated air back down to the furnace. Then you'll need to seal the gable fan and insulate, perhaps with a box you can remove in the spring and replace in the fall. Now that the attic is integrated in the HVAC system, you no longer need the soffit vents. If you don't have a forced air system, there is less concern about the cold air return, as your heat source would be in the room or you can just use floor grates on opposite ends of the room for both the warm air and cold air exchange. Place one near the heat source below and one well away from it.
- Q:I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (>15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2" thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3" galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?
- I agree with the soundness of every part of your plan EXCEPT not removing the original shingle roof. The shingle roof is already at the end of its usable life. There’s no benefit to covering up old problems, and they will most likely affect the durability of the new roof. Plus, removing the old roof gives you the opportunity to inspect and repair any issues with the roofing deck. Your new insulation and metal roof will attach better and perform better by removing the old shingle roof.
- Q:This is blocking airflow and I'm having it removed after I bought the house. There is already insulation on the attic 'floor'. This is double insulated and is not correct. Why would anyone do this?
- No building codes back then, and maybe he was thinking about putting an extra room up there then you would have to insulate the rafters also
- Q:I know when you inhale the insulation from the roof irritates the throat but what can you do to clear it from your throat after inhaling it?
- it's not your throat you should be worried about. it's your lungs. wear a respirator....or at the very least, a dust mask. you only live once so make it last.
- Q:attic insulation
- Blow in insulation is so easy and cost effective, do it yourself. Machines can be rented at Lowes, HD, etc where you buy the material.
- Q:what effect does changing the pitch of a roof have on the insulation properties and durability of a roof?
- As long as the insulation in the attic area is not changed then the insulating value should not change. As far as durability concerning the pitch of a roof it realy depends on the type of shingle you use.
- Q:How do I find roofers who are specialised in protection against invaders from outer space. I called 10 and they said they would call me back, but no one did so far. It must be really complicated.
- Don't fall for this SCAM! Everyone knows that lining your roof with aluminum foil acts as an antenna. Making it easier for those little gray bastards to track your every move. And most roofers are in cahoots with those outer space nar-do-wells This myth/propaganda was originally disseminated by the Inter-Galatic Agency for Human Anal Probing (AgHAP). I first became aware of this little plot after dealing with roofers for many years as a GC. After only a brief conversation with anyone on a roofing crew and you can only assume there are from another plant.
- Q:Can you put fiberglass insulation on the under side of roof tiles in the loft in the house?
- Not between tiles and roof sheathing, but YES on the inside of the sheathing, between the rafters. However, the recommended location is between the rafters on the FLOOR of the loft, unless you plan on using the loft as a living space.
- Q:As opposed to other roof structures, such as Mansard or Hipped roofs. If so, is it because there is a lesser distance between the internal heat source and the roof?
- No, it really does not matter what type of roof as long as the insulation is well done. But of course in a flat roof it is easier to reach all the points with ease whereas in sloping roof some areas may be inaccessible. But, with blow-in insulation that is not a big problem.
- Q:Best roofing insulation to keep warm in the winter?
- Aluminum is a good resister to thermal flow, but its primary characteristic is to stop the transfer of air. A solid barrier of aluminum will stop air movement, and will reflect heat back. A drawback is that it must be installed in a way so that no air can move through any cracks. Blown in fiberglass is your best bet. Trapped air is what insulates a space. Cellulose settles with gravity after a period of time, the fiberglass does not settle, traps more air, and can have a resistance value of up to 33. A well-insulated attic will keep you warm in winter, and keep the hot attic air from infiltrating your home in summer.
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flexible ducts INFU FKAB insulation mylar
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 234 g/m
- Supply Capability:
- 234 g/m/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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