• Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Material FBEBF System 1
  • Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Material FBEBF System 2
  • Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Material FBEBF System 3
Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Material FBEBF

Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Material FBEBF

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
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TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
1000000 m²/month

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Aluminum Foil Bubble Heat Insulation

Description of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

 

Aluminum foil and bubble is the better product in the environmental protection, thermal insulation thermal insulation. The outermost PET has good abrasion resistance and high strength tear resistance. The bubble between the aluminum foil not only has a strong moisture, resistance oxygen, sound insulation, drop noise function, aluminum foil bubble also has very good reflective inverse heat, blocking ultraviolet.

 

Features of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

 

It is the high quality heat insulating and the invincible opponent of anti- condensation. The low and stable coefficient of heat conduction has good isolation effect.

The product has many advantages, such as light weight, heat insulation, shock absorption, sound absorption and noise reduction;

The product is easy to install and process and it also waterproof, seepage control, flame retardant.

The product also has many features, such as heat resistance, low temperature resistance, chemical resistance, ageing resistance etc.

 

Application of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

 

Building reflective heat, cold and hot water pipe insulation;

Refrigerator partition, central air conditioning, refrigerator and household appliances insulation;

Insulation, sound-absorbing, noise reduction and moisture-proof insulation in the car, train, refrigerator car, laboratory and other industries;

Special product packaging and refrigerated packing and so on.

 

Pictures of Aluminum Foil Bubble

 

 

 

Specification of Aluminum Foil Bubble

 

STRUCTURE

ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL

ALUMINUM FOIL/ BUBBLE/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL

ALUMINUM FOIL/WOVEN CLOTH/BUBBLE/WOVEN CLOTH/ALUMINUM FOIL

MPET /BUBBLE/MPET

ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/FOAM/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL

THICKNESS

1-4mm

8mm

6.5mm

4mm

4mm

WEIGHT

120GSM

240GSM

180GSM

120GSM

445GSM

BUBBLE SIZE

4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

4mm HIGH x 20mm DIAMETER

4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

FOAM THICKNESS: 3.5MM

WIDTH

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY

0.034w/mo

0.032 w/mo

0.032w/mo

0.034w/mo

5.87m2.k/w

REFLECTIVITY

96-97%

96-97%

96-97%

96-97%

96-97%

 

FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely:

①How about your company?

A world class manufacturer & supplier of aluminum foil bubble insulationis one of the large-scale professional investment aluminum foil composite insulation bases in China, consisting of both casting foundry forging and machining factory. Annually more than 100,000 square meters foil insulation are exported to markets in Europe, America and Japan. OEM service available according to customer’s requirements.

②How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management systemevery link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test; We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The specific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 20 to 25 working days can be served.

What is the storage condition?

The welded wire mesh should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.

Q:I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
The sip panels are vented depending on what thickness over all that you want. The last ones I used had 4 inches of rigid foam board then on top of that had 3" strips every 16" an inch thick which created an airspace. On top was 5/8 Osb. To create an affective air flow the fascia cannot plane through with the plywood at the bottom but fall just short of the 1" space. To cap it a oversized vented drip edge is used. You must also have a ridge vent for proper flow. These panels can near 100$. You can do it your own way like I do when building log cabins by laying 2" foam down first then lay 2x4 16 on center on top then finally your plywood. If you use CDX instead of Osb it will outlast it by 100%. Rigid foam insulation is not like batt-faced. Rfboard ins. Is used in boat hulls and even after being submerged for long periods of time will return to its original density and r-value. For obvious reasons batt ins. Will not. You won't have a moisture problem as long as you don't have a venting problem. If you are using high hat lighting don't let the cans touch your rigid ins. Tuck batt in softly around them TAKE THE PAPER OFF! By code if you have an interior wall 10or more ft. It must have a fireblock, simply a 2x4 turned flat between the studs. On your roof the ceiling you see inside, (most likely 7/8 tongue and groove boards) passes as the same. Good luck!
Q:if you had snow and all the snow is off your roof and the house nex store has snow do we need insulation?
You hit the nail on the head and is a direct indication that you need more insulation. As a matter of fact, many carpentry companies send the sales force out in the winter (When new home building is slower) to look for houses with no to little snow on their roofs compared to their neighbors. This is an indication that the roof is allowing to much heat to escape which then melts the snow on the roof. But take one other thing into account. Was the wind blowing? If the wind is blowing, it could blow snow off your roof and not your neighbor due to his location, obstructions(such as tree's, other buildings) or design of his roof. lastly, depending on the orientation of your home, more sunlight can hit your roof than your neighbors allowing more snow to melt. If your roof is darker compared to your neighbor, it can increase your snow melt compared to your neighbor. If the snow is recent and your neighbor has snow on the roof and you don't, chances are that you need insulation as $$$ is escaping out of your ceiling.
Q:I'm thinking of converting my brick walled corrugated iron shed into a changing room for winter hot tub use. I was advised by a friend that the first thing i should do is insulate the roof using glass fibre insulation (the yellow fluffy stuff in the loft) and a simple Plywood ceiling but im not sure how i would stick it to the existing roof (dimensions 170cm x 147cm). So..... how should i insulate the roof of my future changing room????
What is he using glue on? Buy rolled fiberglass insulation, install it between the rafters and wall studs...paper side in. You can cover the walls and ceiling with drywall, OSB, plywood if you wish. You do realize that insulating your shed isn't going to make it much/any cooler don't you? You will need an air conditioner for that, but the insulation will help keep the AC in.
Q:I already have fiberglass in the attic, but would like to add more.
Blown in is easier, cheaper and can be a DIY project. Just make sure you don't block the soffitts that allow air to circulate.
Q:I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like "crawl in") attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.
The reason you do not put insulation directly on the underside of your roof is all about moisture and mold. You need an air gap between the roof and the insulation and allow it to breath. This prevents moisture from condensation that can cause big problems. You could install a radiant barrier that reflects the heat. Do a google search to learn more about it. You could install and attic fan to suck the hot air out in the summer. Most important is to make sure the insulation on the attic floor is the proper thickness.
Q:Our roof tile is installed on top of galvanized iron sheets. We do not have any toher form of insulation. The roof tile or tegula is quite thick.
Absolutely. You will find in the summer that your tiles will heat up from the sun and will stay hot even after dark (the steel sheets don't exactly help either). Your energy bills will go down about 60% in the summer and 20% in the winter by just installing a cheap fiberglass filling. A good example of how these tiles are effecting you house would be a stoneware cup. Pour hot water into it and place it in the microwave until it boils. Feel that the side are very hot, too hot to hold (this represents the sun heating up the tiles). Now pour out that cup and fill it with cold water (which would represent AC in your home). In about 2 or three minutes, place your finger in the stoneware cup. The water will be warm. The tiles do the same thing. The absorb and distribute heat into your home during the warm months, and will rob your home of it's heat during the winter and cool months. Just by placing insulation in your home, you stop that unwanted heat exchange with your home and the outside world.
Q:we want to put a model railway up in the loft,and i like the idea of having white plastic cladding throughout up there,my hubby is insulating the roof tomorrow,but he prefers plasterboard,at least the cladding will be maintenance free,
i think it might be able to pass code if you ever sell the house.i myself would use sheets of white wainscoting.also make sure the insulation if it has a paper backing ,paper faces the room.
Q:I have a converted loft which is really cold. The roof doesn't have any insulation, just a waterproof sheet, but i don't want to spend too much insulating it with the proper boards. If i use mineral wool and staple it across the roof trusses will it do a good job?
Yes, be sure to leave an air space between the top of the insulation and the roof deck to allow for ventilation, and use a vapor barrier on the interior side of the insulation.
Q:How do I find roofers who are specialised in protection against invaders from outer space. I called 10 and they said they would call me back, but no one did so far. It must be really complicated.
Make a hat out of tin foil like some of the people in the mental hospital do. No roofer in his right mind would go near your house if you tell him this outlandish story you claim to be circulating about space invaders. Mentally unstable people tend to scare normal folks away in droves, see a therapist or get a new joke writer because I'm not buying it either.
Q:As opposed to other roof structures, such as Mansard or Hipped roofs. If so, is it because there is a lesser distance between the internal heat source and the roof?
For insulation, what is important is the material it is done and how it is positioned (different materials used on the same roof), and not it if flat or anything else.

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