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FAQ

How can I do a pressure test on my 350's water pump. Some one suggested I do it to make sure it needs replacing.

do you have heating or coolant loss there are many things that can cause this not only the water pump it can be the thermostat not working could be a water leak and also the fan that cools the motor could be faulty, any such problems can be serious and cause the engine to overheat and get damaged. if so get it fixed asap.

I recently bought a 1992 Honda Accord. It has high mileage but the records kept on it were impecable up to about the last 3 years. I have read that you need to replace the timing belt/water pump every 80k miles. However; I do not know when it was changed last. The Only record in the book on the subject was back at 90k miles. That was the first time they had the timing belt changed.So How do I know its time to change it again? The car now has 199k miles. I do not want to do unnecessary work before time, however; I also know that the affects it will have on the engine is great if its not done within the right TIME! Is there anyway to know it needs to be done? What kind of signs will the car give? And how much is it going to cost me when it has to be done? Thanks!

A water pump is mostly pretty obvious when it is going/gone it chirps it squeaks and your temperature will usually be higher than it usually was [not always]. As for a timing belt... they are relatively inexpensive, the labor isnt that bad since the car is VERY easy to work on, and it is difficult to tell when one is needed since the most it will make is a whining noise when its getting weaker, only sometimes though. This is hard to hear too. Best advice I have is to just get a couple appraisals/estimates, or have a friend who is mechanically savvy take a look to see if he/she can tell if the belt is worn to the point where it needs replacing. I had a timing belt done for $120 parts and labor on a 91 accord (same car)

i took off the lower unit to fix the gears. im not sure ill be able to put it back on with out knowing how things work in there.so how exactly does the water get pumped. and what does it have to do with the gears, because even though the prop wasn't turning, the water was still pumping.thanks.

The driveshaft is always turning. A pinion gear at the bottom of the driveshaft spins the forward and reverse gears, which are freewheeling (in opposite directions) on the prop shaft. The clutch dog is splined and/or pinned to the propshaft, and moved forward (to mesh with the forward gear) or aft (to mesh with the reverse gear) by the clutch dog cradle, which is moved by the up or down motion of the shift rod. The backside of the forward reverse gears are machined with square corners that mesh with the clutch dog. So, the engine turns the driveshaft, the driveshaft turns the gears, the gears turn the clutchdog, and the dog turns the propshaft. Meanwhile, as mentioned, the drive shaft, which is always spinning, is also the water pump shaft. The water pump has a neoprene impeller in a chromed housing; a very tight fit -- the vanes have to be bent over to fit. The center of the housing is offset from the shaft, so the compartments where water is drawn in get smaller as they rotate toward the discharge, which provides enough water pressure to force water through the engine even at idle speed. The impeller is fit so tightly into the housing, that it will generate enough heat to melt and break up without a source of water -- it only takes about 30 seconds of dry running to seriously damage the impeller. to fix the gears, you have to use a gear puller to pull the propshaft bearing carrier. The reverse gear will fall out. Reach in with a long box-end wrench to remove the pinion gear from the driveshaft, and pull the driveshaft bearing housing out with the driveshaft. When you remove the shift rod, the prop shaft, forward gear, clutch dog etc should be accessible. There's a lot of complicated steps to accomplish each of the above, and some critical measurements with near-zero tolerance. Don't do it without a factory service manual in hand.

It hasnt rain in quite a while, but I havent had any problems with the water or pressure, but it seems like the pump is always quot;onquot;. I purchased this house almost a year ago, never had a well, so I now very little about it. I moved in December, rain season here in NC, and remember the pump going on and off, now its constantly running, Is it normal for the pump to be running that much? any websites to read up on how a water well works?thanks

Sounds like you have a holding tank problem. Check to see if it is leaking air. Or you could have a busted pipe somewhere, you could cut the water off in the house but not at the pump to see if it continues. If so the problem is at the well, if the problem stops after the tank refills you have a busted pipe between the pump and the house.

Where can I get supplies to build water pumps, for decoration.Thank you.

Home Depot, Lowes, Michael's craft stores, waterfall and water feature stores, Target, WalMart and sometimes Big Lots. I've also found supplies to build decorative water pumps at my local nurseries, Green Thumb and Armstrong.

I'm going to be purchasing a laboratory distillation kit here pretty soon, the kit includes everything I need for the setup but the condenser requires a water pump to circulate cold water around the coils. What kind of pump would you recommend for this purpose?

A small centrifugal pump that has the flowrate designated by the condenser manufacturer. I assume it has a heat exchanger of some type to reject the heat to the air and that would need a designate flow. Anyway, look in any lab supply catalog or web site and they will have many small pumps. You do not need to carefully control the flowrate, so stay away from metering or peristaltic pumps. The pumps may even be made of plastic, that is fine for this application. In my lab, we would just run the water from the tap through the glass condenser and let it drain out to waste. It is wasteful of water, but it sure was much cheaper than buying a pump and heat exchanger.

i have a 1960 ford f100 and i was wondering if its better to have an electric water pump or mechanical. ive heard mechanical is worse because at low rpms it doesnt put as much water into the motor but i wasnt sure how true that was. What was is better so that my truck doesnt overheat? and how much better is one over the other if electric will just be a little better is it even worth using? also will i need to change anything on my motor to be able to put an electric water pump on it or will it just bolt on like the mechanical one does

Well your mechanical water pump is more than sufficient to pump water through your engine even at low rpms. Whether you have a electric or mechanical your can't pump more water though your engine than what your thermostat will allow you to. The advantage that i can see over electric would be the extra horse power you might get over having your mechanical

I think my water pump has crapped out on my 1997 Jeep Cherokee. I have been leaking coolant for a few days now and there is a puddle under my Jeep after I turn it off and my reserve tank keeps emptying out on me. I replaced the lower radiator hose and still the same problem. It is not over heating so I am wondering if it IS a water pump problem? If it is, could I do the work myself?

Go okorder They have on-line repair manuals for just about every car. You'll be guided through entering your vehicle make and engine size/type. Find the water pump and read the directions they give you. I changed the one on my Buick this way. It's cheaper and easier than buying the manual. If it looks to complicated, then take the car to a shop.