• Anti-clogging Submersible Sewage Water Pump AS/AV System 1
  • Anti-clogging Submersible Sewage Water Pump AS/AV System 2
  • Anti-clogging Submersible Sewage Water Pump AS/AV System 3
Anti-clogging Submersible Sewage Water Pump AS/AV

Anti-clogging Submersible Sewage Water Pump AS/AV

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Product description
AS submerged sewage pumps are late-model sewage discharge equipments designed and manufactured on the basis of the advanced pump technology from Germany ABS and so on. Featured by simple structure, robust discharge capacity, high efficiency, and energy conservation etc. This type of pumps can be equipped with automatic control cabinets and automatic installation coupling device, making them finely configured and running more dependably.

 

Application

Applicable forhandling liquid containingsolid particles and long fiber, seriously polluted, viscous and slippery, sewage, clean water and other mediums similar to water in the industries of pharmaceutical, papermaking, chemicals, hospitals, hotels, and domestic sewage drainage system etc.


Technical Data

Flow rate: up to 145 m³/h

Head: up to 22 m

Speed: max 2850 rpm

Temperature: max 60 cetigrade

Casing pressure: up to 0.6 MPa

Shaft seal: mechanical sealing

Material: cast iron, stainless steel, duplex

 

Data Sheet

Type

Capacity (m3/h)

Head   (m)

Speed  (r/min)

Power  (kw)

Voltage(V)

Diameter(mm)

AS10-2WCB

15

4

2850

1.1

220

76

AS10-2CB

151

4.5

2900

1.1

380

76

AS16-2CB

29

7.6

2900

1.5

380

76

AS30-2CB

42

11

2900

3

380

76

AS55-2CB

45

13

2900

5.5

380

127

AS55-4CB

100

7.5

1450

5.5

380

152

AS75-2CB

60

18

2900

7.5

380

127

AS75-4CB

145

10

1450

7.5

380

152

AV14-4

22

5.8

1450

1.4

380

76

AV55-2

30

20

2900

5.5

380

76

AV75-2

30

25

2900

7.5

380

76

 

Q:I was vacuuming up water from my basement I assumed was from the rain, suddenly water started spraying out of a blue pump at the base of my furnace, don't know what the pump does or why its spraying but its making an awful mess.
Furnace Water Pump
Q:I installed a new water pump on a Cherokee straight-6 engine, the upper radiator hose is not heating up and the engine is starting to make a funny noise. The thermostat is new and was working fine before. The coolant reservoir is full and no more coolant will drain to radiator / engine. Anyone know why waterpump is not circulating coolant?
I'm unfamiliar with the workings of that engine. Have you bled all of the air out? It wouldn't be the first time a new part is faulty. Don't assume that just because it is new, that it is working. Unlikely as it is, it is possible that the new water pump is faulty.
Q:Two sewage pumps switch from each other, start with float switch control, the first sump, when the water is full, the first start, the second rotation to second units start, so the cycle of alternating
The puddle is full, the float switch is closed, and the relay J1 works to drive the first motor. The J1's work makes the intermediate relay 'J' work and locks itself, preparing for the work of the second machines. The water level is lowered to the required minimum position, the ball is broken, the motor is stopped and the motor is stopped. When the water level rose to the highest position again, the floating ball closed again, the relay J2 and self-locking relay J2 to drive second motors, instant intermediate relay are opened, when the water level again be reduced to the lowest position, float off, the motor stops working, stop by working in front of the intermediate relay. The whole circuit back to the original state. So that the two motors work alternately.It should be noted that the circuit diagram for simple to understand, only painted the control circuit, there is no main circuit, there is no missing phase, leakage, over-current and other protection, the actual installation needs to be installed. There is the role of time relay is to ensure that the relay J2 normal work, the intermediate relay is disconnected, so that the motor 2 does not occur wrong action, time relay can be set to a few seconds, or even less than a second. Intermediate relay can also be controlled by time relay, and its time is also set very small, so as to avoid J2 short time possible power supply.
Q:My Toyota 2006 Sienna has 80K miles on it and I asked the dealer to inspect the vehicle. He suggested that i replace Timing Belt, Water Pump, Drive Belt and Trans Pan Gasket. The cost of the repair comes to $1300 ($460 for Timing Belt, $350 for Water Pump, $140 for Drive Belt $370 for Pan Gasket).I'm caught by surprise with the price quoted and things to be replaced. Is the price quoted reasonable? Are these replacement common for Sienna vehicle with 80K miles? I don't know what could possibly go wrong if these are not changed for couple of months. I have an extended warranty on the vehicle for 100K miles will any of the above get covered under warranty?Any suggestions or advice is highly appreciated/
not sure about the timing belt but water pump seems expensive, so does the drive belt but the transmission pan gasket is a rip off. it should not be $350, those are not that hard to replace. dont go to a dealer for all this, try other mechanics dealer is out to get your money but they will do a good job. other mechanics will do it cheaper but a poor job. if your car has 80K you can possibly go up to 100K, I mean timing belt does need to be checked around there, is your water pump leaking? if not then your wasting money, pan gasket is there a pink oil leak, if so then probably its time for a new pan gasket...
Q:The pump works and water goes to the house from the reserve tanks but there can be long delays before it cuts in after mains pressure is lost. After it stops the pressure gauge falls back slowly to zero. Pressure vessel is a sphere has a valve on top. Any suggestions ?
The guage is probably broken, but that is mostly for reference for setting your start/stop switch. Now, first off I'd check your bladder tank. A bad bladder tank will still give you some pressure but causes the pump to run almost constantly. To test that, there is a bicycle looking air valve sticking out of the bladder tank. Push a key or something in it as if you were to let air out of a tire. If any water comes out, your bladder is bad and has to be replaced. If you have an older style deep well, like a well house where the pump is accessible, check the switch, (little black box attached to the pump). There are two screws that can be turned. One sets the pressure the pump will turn off at and the other adjusts the minimum pressure you want for the water to turn back on and fill your tank. A lot of people go 20/40, I run mine at 30/50. Much more than that and you can run into problems, especially if you have cpvc pipes. They will weaken at the elbows and 60 psi of water can eventually make pin hole leaks. This is from personal experience. You will need a working gauge to set this. If the bladder is not your problem, email me and I'll give you more details on how to set your pump if you need it. Or, you can buy preset switches at your local hardware for $20 and just swap it out. In that case, do not mess with the adjustment screws.
Q:I have a Honda 20003 bf15 d short shaft Ineed to change the water pump I have removed the 5 bolts that hold the lower unit it on but the shifter is steal hooked up how doI unhook that?
Please get the workshop manual. From an imperfect memory it should be in forward gear to expose a link - but I could be confusing it with other brands. This brand has a known issue with the water pump if ever run dry as both the impellor and the housing can be damaged instantly. The pump should always be replaced as a full assembly, housing, seals and impellor, as detritus can easily block water galleries and that requires extensive work to remediate. The thermostat should be checked and replaced at the same time. Worn and damaged impellor material can easily end up through the block, head, thermostat etc. and that must be checked for as well. The lower cylinder can be down on compression caused by local overheating due to this and mud, sand and corrosion reducing water flow. An engine that very much must be flushed and looked after after all use - that includes all the larger models with this brand. They are quite a good engine, but seem very heavy for the output to me - particularly compared to lifting a two stroke on and off....
Q:Our water pump was really warm/hot to the touch, our hot water was more warm than hot, and wouldnt heat up enough to get hot, and it wouldn't turn off. (like when it starts up when you turn on the water,it just kept going,and wouldn't stop) so, because it was hot, and going constantly, we didn't want it to explode, or burn out, so we turned it off, and now I'm hoping that when we turn it back on after it cools, that it'll go back to turning on/off intermittently, instead of constantly. So, after it cools down, will it go back to normal, instead of just constantly going??!?
I assume you have a water well pump. The experience I have had, is it will come back on once the thermal safety switch cools down. However, I think you still have work here to do because each time this happens, you are shortening the life of your pump. First you need to determine why it ran hot to begin with. Could be lots of reasons, but just to name a few. -Is your water tank in good shape, with the correct air pressure? -Is the tank waterlogged, too old or leaking? -Any leaks in the service in or to the house? -Is your contact switch working properly, clean contacts, good wire, good connections, breaker etc.? -Is there water running somewhere your not aware of? -Last but not least, the check valve and foot valve leading to the well could also be defective. Just my opinion, I hope this helps to get you thinking. Good luck; flip;
Q:What are the categories of pumps?
As long as you see, you need flow, lift, power
Q:Is it cheaper to run an electric water pump or a furnace?
heat water/pump. not sure what that is but I know what a heat pump is. If that whats your talking about thean the answer is well...yes and no. depending on cost of gas and electric typical a heat pump is better to run for heat as along as its above freezing outside. It will still work and put out heat all winter but it won't be much heat for what your paying for, at which point your better with gas heat.
Q:Water is pumped out of a holding tank at a rate of 6-6e^(-.09t) liters/minute, where t is in minutes since the pump is started. If the holding tank contains 1000 liters of water when the pump is started, how much water does it hold one hour later??Round your answer to one decimal place.
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